72 hours in Ubud

Last year, I spent three months living in Ubud, Bali and loved every minute of it. While I traveled widely in Bali, I spent the majority of my time living and breathing Ubud. Unlike some of the other more touristy destinations on Bali, Ubud is a vibrant  cultural hub. It is a mecca for art, yoga, shopping, fresh, organic food, and, my personal favorite, rice terraces. There is so much to do, see, and experience in Ubud, but our 72-hour guide includes my can’t-miss recommendations.

Morning, Day One

Pura Saraswati

If you are staying in town, grab breakfast at Kafe, where I’d recommend ordering the buckwheat banana pancakes, or, if you want to eat like the locals, order the Bubur Injin, which is a black rice pudding with coconut milk and banana.  
After fueling up, head out and explore the center of town. You will see and experience the culture of Bali everywhere. There are boutiques and shops, amazing restaurants and cafés. Take it all in. Explore. While you are wandering, you must stop at the following three places.
The first is Ubud Market, which is a market where locals shop for fresh fruits and vegetables but also attracts tourists with locally-made goods.  
Next, check out Pura Saraswati, also known as the Lotus temple, as there are large lotus ponds right in front of the temple. The Saraswati temple is breathtaking with elaborate carvings that honor the goddess Saraswati known to be the goddess of wisdom and the arts. There are also regular dance performances by night at the temple.
Finally, don’t miss Ubud Palace, which, similar to the Lotus temple, underscores the intricate craftsmanship of traditional Balinese style.

Afternoon, Day One

Sacred Monkey Forest

Take a break from the intense heat with lunch at Taco Casa. While it might sound strange to eat Mexican food in Bali, this place is a favorite of mine, probably my most-frequented place during my time there. I highly recommend the vegetarian eight-layer burrito bowl, and I’m not even vegetarian. To drink, don’t miss the orange lime mint ginger soda.
After lunch, head to the Sacred Monkey Forest. You can’t go to Ubud without stopping by Monkey Forest. As the name suggests, monkeys are everywhere, and, yes, they will jump or climb on you. Don’t be afraid, but be aware that they will try to grab anything off your body, like hats or sunglasses, and, of course, any food or drink in your hand or even relatively accessible in your bag.

Evening, Day One

Sunset over a ricefield

A perfect evening in Ubud is watching the sun set over the iconic rice fields. Is there anything better than that? Yes, enjoying dinner while watching the sun set over the rice fields. Do this at Sari Organik. Their food is locally sourced at an organic farm across the road. I am a big fan of their fried rice with chicken.
While it is a little difficult to find, as cars aren’t allowed to drive up to it, you can either take a scooter along the narrow path (don’t do this unless you are confident in your scooter-driving skills) or you can find the wooden sign along the main road and then walk along the rice fields and lovely bungalows until you reach the restaurant. If you get lost, just ask around and someone will point you in the right direction. The Balinese people are extremely friendly and helpful.
After dinner, head to Laughing Buddha for drinks, live music, and dancing.

Morning, Day Two

Telegalang rice terraces

Rent a scooter and head over to Clear Café for breakfast. They have unique coffee drinks (such as mint or coconut lattes), and all of the food on their menu is not only organic but incredibly delicious. I also highly recommend trying one of their tonics or elixirs. Also, while you dine, you’ll be staring at one of Bali’s many temples.
After you’ve nourished your body, cruise over to the Tegalalang Rice Terraces. Photos don’t do it justice. Rice terraces are quintessential Bali and are a prominent part of the scenery around the island, especially in Ubud. The Balinese have developed an impressive and complex system of terraced rice fields as the steep terrain precludes the use of the traditional wet farming style to grow rice.  

Afternoon, Day Two

Tegenungan Waterfall

Head back to the center of town and visit Dewa Warung for lunch. It’s a small spot in the midst of a busy street of other restaurants and shops. It doesn’t appear particularly attractive from the outside, but locals love it. Try the avocado salad and the soto ayam.
After lunch, put on your swimsuit, jump on your scooter, and go to the Tegenungan Waterfall. This place is not just for tourists. You will see an abundance of locals here as well, especially on the weekends. You will have to descend (and then later ascend) a long staircase and then walk along the river to get to the waterfall, so some physical dexterity is required for this excursion. But it’s worth it for the photo opp, and of course cooling off with a swim under the falls.  

 Evening, Day Two

CP Lounge

Dinner at Naughty Nuri’s is a must and, it should be noted, is Anthony Bourdain approved and recommended. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, so plan on waiting for a table.  
If it’s a Friday night, head to the Yoga Barn for Ecstatic Dance. This is a dance party with a DJ, but no one is allowed to speak to each other. You are encouraged to feel the music and let your body move. It may take you out of your comfort zone, but it’s a great way to meet other travelers and have an experience unlike anything you’ve done before.
If that’s too far outside of your comfort zone, an alternative is to have drinks and listen to live music at CP Lounge. Their strawberry sensation cocktail is amazing.

 Morning, Day Three

Morning yoga

Another day, another rice field. Trust me, you won’t be sick of dining with a view. At The Elephant, you’ll find both an incredible view and healthy, delicious, sustainable food.
Then, head back to the Yoga Barn for a morning yoga session. Yoga is one of the primary draws to visiting Ubud, even if you don’t practice regularly (I don’t), so it’s worth checking out, if only for the experience.
Afterwards, go next door and have a massage. Bali is a premier destination for massages as they are very economical, costing on average between $7 and $10 for an hour.

 Afternoon, Day Three

Tirta Empul

Have lunch at a quaint, local place called Bubu Warung. Most everything on the menu is delicious, but, in particular, I highly recommend the chicken curry. Also, the staff is wonderful.
Then, jump back on your scooter and head a little out of town to Tirta Empul, which is a traditional Balinese water temple. Locals go here for purification which is done by standing under a series of water spouts in one of two large pools. Also, be sure to walk around the grounds and see the temples.  

 Evening, Day Three

The Onion Collective

For your last evening in Ubud, I would highly recommend rendang, a local marinated meat dish (but vegetarian options are available too) at Waroeng Bernadette. It is located on a street with lots of shopping and other restaurants, which can serve as a relaxing pre-dinner activity.
After dinner, stop by The Onion Collective, which is a unique space that includes living accommodations, a co-working space, a pool, and regular evening entertainment. They host a flea market with locally-made goods and often an artist who does pencil sketches, open mic nights, and live bands (the owner, Mark, often plays with his band). The staff is incredibly personable, and the food is great as well. 

Mauna Kea: snow, fun, and sun

The Mountain

Telescopes on Mauna Kea

The thought of living among five volcanoes on an island in the Pacific may not instill a sense of peace in many people. But for locals on the Big Island of Hawaii, one of those volcanoes holds a range of respected qualities, and that’s Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain from base to summit. It holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for Native Hawaiians.  Eleven countries operate 13 telescopes on the mountain including the Keck Observatory. And high above the beaches and valleys, it can transform into a winter wonderland. When heavy rains bring a thick blanket of snow to Mauna Kea, its summit becomes a gathering place above the clouds.
The Mountain (as locals call it) looms as a stark backdrop to the laid-back east side town of Hilo. Mauna Kea reaches nearly 14,000 feet above sea level, but stakes its claim as twice as tall as Mount Everest thanks to being 32,000 feet tall from the ocean’s floor. Though Mauna Kea is considered dormant, geologists expect its neighboring shield volcano Mauna Loa to erupt again one day. Not far away Kilauea has been erupting for three decades, and inches closer to the historical town of Pahoa each day.

Snow

Snow on Mauna Kea

When locals wake to thick snow on the Mountain, eighty-degree days liven with the promise of an adventure that contrasts the usual surf missions and camping trips. Anticipation builds as people wait for word that the road to the summit has been opened. Their four-wheel-drive trucks will ascend with body boards, snowboards, and trashcan tops to serve as sleds, and descend with loads of snow for building snowmen at home. The lucky pull out winter coats and gloves, while many throw together island style snow gear where warmth increases with each layer (think lots of socks and long sleeved t-shirts).
Though the summit is reached by a rather smooth 4X4 drive, staying there for long takes some endurance. Altitude sickness can hit, resulting in nausea and dizziness. It’s advised that children under the age of 16 don’t go to the top, but they can spend time at the visitor’s center at 9,000 feet, where everyone should spend a half hour acclimating before climbing higher. Here, telescopes are available for use and nightly stargazing is offered from 6 to 10 p.m. whatever the weather.
One of the best ways to enjoy the heights and stars is with the help of Mauna Kea Summit Adventures who offer eight-hour tours that include sunset views, dinner, and stargazing.

Sacred sites

Lake Waiau

Mauna Kea isn’t just for winter shenanigans and sightseeing. It’s home to sacred places, archaeological sites, and, recently, controversy. After years of planning, construction of the $1.4 billion Thirty Meter Telescope begun in late 2014. The telescope that will have roughly 10 times the resolution of Hubble was not born without a fight, a fight where tradition and science couldn’t find  common ground.
Hawaiians and cultural preservationists say that the construction of the telescope would dissolve and disgrace the sacred places and spiritual significance of Mauna Kea. For Hawaiians, Mauna Kea embodies the union of Wakea, the Sky Father, and Papahanaumoku, the mother goddess who gave birth to the Islands.
One of those sacred sites is Lake Waiau at 13,000 feet amidst an arid, rocky, oxygen-poor landscape. The only glacially formed lake in the mid-Pacific, was and still is used for healing and cultural practices. Traditionally families would deposit the umbilical cord of newborns into the lake, as well as spread the ashes of the deceased there.

Past and future

Mauna Kea under the Milky Way

At 12,000 feet elevation on Mauna Kea’s southwest slope is a quarry that contributed to the evolution of Hawaiian culture. Pre-contact Hawaiians made the trek on foot to access the high quality basalt adze quarry. Large boulders were broken down into portable adze “blanks,” which were then carried back down to shoreline homes for manufacturing.  
But that was then, and this is now where Mauna Kea will help science move forward and connect Native Hawaiians with tradition. It offers snowboard contests, the best sunrises and sunsets, Zen moments at the top of the world, and a view that reaches Maui.
As stated so eloquently in the Mauna Kea Comprehensive Management Plan: “…Mauna Kea is sacred. Mauna Kea is where heaven, earth and stars find union. Not just any heaven, but Wakea, not just any earth, but Papahanaumoku, and not just any constellation of twinkling lights, but Ho‘ohokukalani, whose children descend and return to the stars.”