Silence and darkness battle for dominance in Kaunakakai, a small town on the southeastern shore of the Hawaiian island of Moloka`i. A dim yellow street lamp comes to life and knocks darkness off its game, and silence gains the lead.
It’s 9:30 p.m. and I’m sitting in my rental car, no one else in sight. I get out, spend a minute in the dark, and revel in the feeling of lingering on the street alone in the shadows of a ghost town. Feels odd, but I’ve got a craving, and I’m going to get my fix. Being here in the dark at Hotel Lane is different than what I might be waiting for at, say, Hotel Street in Honolulu. It defies stereotypes of traditional hedonistic pleasures sought out from back alley peddlers.
Down this narrow passageway that weaves between modest homes and turn of the century structures lies another kind of indulgence. It’s squeaky clean, appropriate for all ages, and legal: dessert.
The alleyway leading from Kanemitsu Bakery
By day, unassuming Kanemitsu Bakery offers the expected homestyle fare of breakfast, deli items, coffee, and pastries. Lonely Planet recommends its macadamia nut lavosh and others swear by the taro doughnuts. But after dark, Kanemitsu’s leads another life. They close their front doors, and the shop moonlights as a purveyor of freshly baked Moloka‘i hot bread, sold exclusively from the bakery’s back door. From 8 p.m. to midnight, every night except Tuesday, the bread is served straight from the oven, piping hot and smothered in a sweet topping. And business is good – Kanemitsu sells an average of 100 loaves of bread each night, and over 300 on weekends.
The town of Kaunakakai closes at 5 p.m., when most of its eclectic shops close – art galleries, a dive shop, health food store, plate lunch joint (open till 9 PM weekdays, but only till 2 PM weekends), and a few others that meet people’s basic needs. Moloka`i is refreshingly underdeveloped, lacking in 24-hour mini-marts to rely on when the late night munchies hit. Knowing the alley is the island’s only after dark source for a sugary treat, I made the half hour drive from the west side’s oceanfront condos (where most visitors stay) in complete darkness, sharing the road only with Moloka`i’s wild deer.
I walk down the street and spot a hand painted sign on a cement wall declaring that “Moloka`i Hot Bread” is down another alley on my left. Colored Christmas lights are the only lights at the end of this dark tunnel. I approach.
The open top half of a door offers a peak into a dark and empty cement room, no server or worker in sight. A marker board to my right announces flavor options for the toppings. Cinnamon, strawberry, blueberry, with butter or cream cheese. I knock. And wait. The voice of an aunty breaks the silence.
“Hi! What would you like?”
She’s wearing a warm smile, and I tell her I’ll take cinnamon and strawberry with butter. Soon she’s gone again, before quickly returning with a hot loaf of wheat bread sliced down the middle and oozing sugary goodness. The packaging is as modest as the location, a simple green plastic bag.
I pay my $7 (cash only, of course), and thank her. Before I leave, she generously places another bag in my arms, this one filled with three glazed pastries. Heading back down the alley, I rip off a piece of bread and stuff it in my mouth. The strawberry is jellylike, and the cinnamon (my favorite of the two) resembles a tastier and homemade Cinnabon.
As I leave, the rush arrives and I pass a young couple, family of four, and three teenage boys. Back on the main street, my car isn’t alone anymore as others pull up, and for the next hour or so, this corner in Kaunakakai will be the busiest spot on Moloka`i.
Hot bread with strawberry and butter
One of the most prestigious film festivals in the world, Berlinale is a major annual event that draws a fascinating crowd of A-list stars, movie makers, and film lovers from all over the world.
If you’re searching for the perfect place to stay during the festival, take a look at our expert picks for the best luxury, mid-range, and budget accommodations. All nine locations are within walking distance, or are just a short taxi ride away, from Berlinale headquarters at Potsdamer Platz.
The best luxury hotels near Berlinale
Historic luxury and megawatt movie stars
The grande dame of Berlin hotels, the Hotel Adlon Kempinski re-opened in 1997 after being destroyed in World War II. Its deluxe interiors pay homage to its storied past, striking a lovely balance between romantic nostalgia and modern elegance. A Michelin-starred restaurant, an indoor pool, and stunning views of Brandenburg Gate make it a perennial favorite with movie stars like Angelina Jolie and Penelope Cruz. From here, it’s a half-mile walk, or a 5-minute taxi ride, to Potsdamer Platz.
Swanky, modern, and next to Potsdamer Platz
Just steps from Potsdamer Platz, the Grand Hyatt Berlin is a modern sandstone hotel by the famed Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. Thoughtful design touches, from the Bauhaus photos to the minimalist furnishings, attract fashion-forward guests and luminaries like Madonna. Don’t miss the views from the rooftop spa, or the Michelin-starred food at Vox, their top-rated restaurant.
Contemporary outside, lavish inside
Overlooking Potsdamer Platz, the Ritz-Carlton may look like a modern-day skyscraper on the outside, but the interiors in this splendid, 303-room hotel ooze traditional glamor and 19th-century sophistication. Luxurious decor, from the cherry wood closets to the gold-leaf fixtures, along with fantastic service and a decadent in-house restaurant, help make this one of Berlin’s most lavish hotels.
The top mid-range hotels near Berlinale
Ultra-hip rooms in the city center
A fashionable, 65-room boutique property in one of Berlin’s trendiest neighborhoods, The Circus Hotel attracts a youngish crowd with an eye for style. Each of the bright, modern rooms features its own unique décor, but all of them boast comfortable beds, rich oak floors, and smart design details. Just ten minutes by car from Potsdamer Platz, the hotel is next to an U-Bahn subway station and is surrounded by popular cafes and restaurants.
Relaxed elegance near the park
Located about a mile from Potsdamer Platz, between a picturesque canal and Tiergarten park, the Grand Hotel Esplanade exudes modern luxury. Beautifully furnished rooms come with feather beds and views of the canal or of the park. A sleek cocktail bar, three restaurants, and a private yacht make it an ideal place to unwind after a day of movie-binging.
Nestled among the upmarket art galleries, fashionable shops, and flashy restaurants in the Mitte district, Lux 11 is a hip hotel featuring tastefully decorated minimalist apartments. One of the former homes of the East German secret police, the property is now part of the Design Hotels group. Created by noted design duo Claudio Silvestrin and his wife, Giuliana Salmaso, the hotel also boasts a lovely rooftop terrace and an Aveda spa on the ground floor. A taxi ride to Potsdamer Platz takes about 10 minutes from here.
The best budget stays near Berlinale
Set in a neoclassical building near the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate, The Arte Luise Kunsthotel started off as an art studio in 2008. Today, it’s a home away from home for artists and media types, where each of the 30 rooms was designed by a different Berlin artist. If Alice in Wonderland murals and hot-pink velvet sheets aren’t your taste, they also have plain rooms with shared baths on the top floor. The hotel is 10 minutes via subway, or 5 minutes via taxi, from Potsdamer Platz.
Simple but stylish – and easy on the wallet
In a city brimming with sub-par hostels, The Circus Hostel sets itself apart from the rest: clean, stylish, and friendly, it’s the cheaper sibling of the popular Circus Hotel on the same street. Knowledgeable staff and a prime location near bars, restaurants, interesting shops, and public transportation make it a favorite with young travelers. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride, or a 20-minute subway ride, to Potsdamer Platz.
Communist-era kitsch you can afford
A two-star hotel in Friedrichshain with rooms outfitted in true Eastern-bloc style, Ostel – GDR The Hostel is further afield than the rest of our Berlinale-friendly hotels: it’s a 15-minute taxi ride (or a 20-minute subway ride) from the film festival’s headquarters at Potsdamer Platz. If you have a thing for communist-era design, this place is worth the added travel time. Choose from simple, dormitory-style beds or check into the Stasi suite, where the bugging devices don’t work but the décor will take you straight back to 1970s East Germany.
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