Sri Lanka has worked hard to attract tourists since the end of its civil war, building hotels, developing adventure tourism, and promoting national parks. Add to this everything else the island offers – ancient cities, delectable food and miles of sandy beaches – and it is no wonder visitor numbers are growing year on year. Using expert reviews and our algorithms that identify top hotels, restaurants and attractions, we have named Sri Lanka the winner of our Experts’ Choice Award for Best Emerging Destination for 2019.
Sri Lanka’s 22 million people include Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Christians and many different ethnic groups. In the middle of the country, Kandy is the heart of Buddhist Sri Lanka; in the second city of Jaffna, the majority of people are Tamil Hindus.
Jaffna Fort
The West Coast is the most developed part of the island, where you’ll find the capital city Colombo and the popular beach resorts of Negombo. On the South Coast is Galle Fort, a Dutch colonial fort, now full of chic hotels and boutiques. In recent years the East has begun attracting tourists, and the area around the old port town of Trincomalee has the island’s best beaches.
For such a small country, Sri Lanka has remarkable natural diversity. At its center, mountains and forests are scattered with the ruins of ancient palaces, dagobas and cave temples. Dozens of rivers wind their way to the coast, creating scenic waterfalls. Almost a third of all land is protected, offering fantastic wildlife spotting opportunities. Much of the coastline is blessed with coral reefs and clean, sandy beaches. In the far North, Sri Lanka’s Jaffna Peninsula is another contrasting landscape of lagoons and remote islands.
Sri Lanka’s first civilization formed as early as 500 BC. Today you can explore the ruins of the ancient kingdoms of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa as well as many of the early monasteries and cave temples. In more recent history the island was occupied by the Portuguese, Dutch and
Polonnaruwa
British who traded cinnamon, gemstones, coffee and tea. As a result, it is full of colonial influences, including old Catholic churches, Dutch canals and forts, and grand municipal buildings built during British rule like Colombo Town Hall and the National Museum.
TripExpert’s top-rated attraction in Sri Lanka is the UNESCO World Heritage siteSigiriya, an incredible palace and fortress hewn out of a huge 180 metre-high rock. Currently Sri Lanka’s most-visited tourist attraction, climbing to the top to see the views is a must-do while on the island. Also known as ‘Lion Mountain’ 1600-year-old Sigiriya has a giant carved gateway of lion’s feet. Its landscaped gardens are some of the oldest in the world, and its frescoes are some of the world’s rarest.
Colombo National Museum
Another top attraction in Sri Lanka is theCeylon Tea Factory. Tea was introduced to Sri Lanka in the 1860s by the Scotsman James Taylor and is one of the island’s top exports. The Museum is located high in the hills of Hantana, the location of the very first plantations. With panoramic views and a café where you can enjoy a tasting session, a visit here is the perfect day trip from Kandy.
Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo is modernizing fast and offers an interesting mix of sights, from the traditional markets of Pettah to the uber-development Port City. The city’s mix of faiths means you can explore many fascinating places of worship including the BuddhistGangaramaya Temple, the mesmerizingJami Ul Alfar Mosque and the Hindu temples of Sea Street. There is an emerging restaurant scene, so head to Park Street Mews for the latest food offerings. TripExpert’s number one hotel is theColombo Court Hotel and Spa, a boutique hideaway on the edge of Cinnamon Gardens. Visit our blog for moretop-rated hotels in Colombo.
We’ve ranked612 hotels across Sri Lanka, with the number one spot going toAditya on the South Coast. Well-positioned for beaches and the beautifulGalle Fort, it has light, airy suites, some with private gardens and plunge pools. In second place isCeylon Tea Trails,
Gangaramaya Temple
a colonial-style resort in Hill Country where you can hike, cycle and treat yourself to a tea-themed spa treatment. At an altitude of 1250 metres, between Horton Plains National Park and the Peak Wilderness Sanctuary, this hotel could not be better positioned for romantic views of mist-shrouded tea estates.
Sri Lanka has activities to suit you whether you are a beach bum, nature lover or cultural tourist. One of the island’s best assets is its coastline. Take a boat trip from Kalpitiya or Mount Lavinia for fantastic snorkelling and scuba diving or get into the island’s booming surf scene at Arugam Bay, Hiriketiya or Kabalana. If relaxing in the sun is more your thing, there are hundreds of beaches to choose from, including the popular stretch from Unawatuna to Mirissa on the South Coast, and the area around Trincomalee in the East.
Elephants, leopards and blue whales are just some of the wild animals you can see in Sri Lanka, and there is no end of tours, safaris and boat trips available. While Yala andUdawalaweare the most visited national parks, many of the less well-known parks are experiencing a resurgence. Wilpattu in the North and Gal
Jami Ul Alfar Mosque
Oya in the East are just two places where you can see wildlife without the crowds. Visit our blog to read more about Sri Lanka’s national parks.
The lush countryside is perfect for hikers – whether you prefer mountain peaks, windswept plains or rainforests. Some of the best hiking trails can be found near the town of Ella, from where you can also take the famous Ella to Kandy train with its world-class views. Another popular area for hikers is the Knuckles Mountains, which offer more challenging routes.
Udawalawe
With tourist numbers reaching an all-time high in December 2018, and some striking hotels opening in 2019 (including the Geoffrey-Bawa-inspiredHarding Boutique Hotel, theJetwing Kandy GalleryandHaritha Villas in Hikkaduwa), Sri Lanka is continuing to bloom. So, if you are planning to visit this wonderfully diverse island, take a look at our recommendations and stories for more inspiration.
Wait, don’t just rush to Machu Picchu, Peru’s capital is more than just its concrete airport! Once upon a time, Lima was viewed by backpackers as merely a necessary evil en route to the Andes. This dismissive attitude wasn’t entirely unjustified; back in the day, South America’s third largest city’s two claims to fame were its efficient and terrifying express kidnappings, along with boasting some of the world’s best currency counterfeiters. In other words, the old Lima wasn’t exactly made of the stuff that brings in tourists. Alas, the old Lima is no more. Sure, the city can still be pretty rough around the edges, but over the past decade or two Lima has blossomed into one of South America’s most intriguing big cities, not to mention a Mecca for foodies eager to experience the Peruvian culinary renaissance. Amid surging international fascination with Peruvian cuisine, the new Lima has enthusiastically draped itself in the mantel of custodianship of the country’s famous foodie fusion. Modern Peruvian meals tend to be a colorful melange of pre-hispanic, Spanish, Chinese and Japanese traditions. Today, Peruvian food is arguably one of the world’s most important fusion traditions, though Lima is more than just a decent place to eat. Peruvians are proud of their history and culture, and modern Lima offers a fantastic mix of museums and cultural sites that can keep the visitor busy for weeks. Here though, we’re going to try to pack all the best the city has to offer into 48 hours. It won’t be easy, and you will be exhausted, but here’s a step by step guide to getting the most out of Lima in just two days.
Day 1: The Historic Center
Day 1: The Historic Center
You might as well start your Peruvian adventure at the same place the Spanish did five centuries ago. In 1535, conquistador Francisco Pizarro planted his flag and declared the founding of Lima on the site of what is today thePlaza de Armas. Commonly referred to simply as the the Plaza Mayor by locals, this large square is located at the heart of the old colonial part of the city. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the square is home to some of the country’s most important historic buildings. To the north you’ll see thePalacio de Gobierno. If you can, return here at noon to check out the changing of the guard. Otherwise, early birds should beeline for Restaurante Cordano, which is located right on the corner near the palacio. This is one of the most popular restaurants in the city center. Directly opposite the palacio, you’ll see the Catedral de Lima, which houses the remains of Pizarro himself. Fans of colonial architecture should also be sure to check out the nearby City Hall and Archbishop’s Palace, both of which are on the square. Them Bones at the Basilica After soaking up the square, head one block to your north-east to the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco. A pleasant enough church in its own right, the site is best known for its underground catacombs packed with the remains of an estimated 25,000 people. The story here is that the catacombs were used as a municipal burial site until the early 20th Century. The catacombs were rediscovered during WWII, and today there are regular guided tours that take visitors through winding tunnels adorned with hundreds of human skulls and other neatly arranged bones. It’s not for the faint of heart, but worth a peek for anyone with a penchant for the grisly. If you found the catacombs surprisingly macabre, then you’ll never expect what’s just around the corner. Indeed, nobody expects a museum dedicated to the Spanish Inquisition to be fun per se, but theMuseo de la Inquisición y del Congreso certainly does a solid job at making one of the darkest eras in Peruvian history both engaging and well worth your time. Visitors follow in the footsteps of countless accused heretics who were seized by the Inquisition, from the torture chambers where confessions were extracted to the court rooms where show trials were carried out. The lucky ones were simply burned at the stake, though as a visitor you’ll get to see dozens of mannequins placed in grotesque positions on famous torture devices like the dreaded rack and waterboarding, not to mention some not-so-comfy chairs. Outside, the museum itself is located on the pleasant Plaza Bolivar, near the Congress building. Behind Congress you’ll find the National Mint and adjacent Numismatic (currency studies) Museum. The museum has an interesting exhibit detailing the history of that green stuff that makes the world go around. See historic examples of how money was made, and gawk at some of Peru’s old bills. Around Plaza Bolivar Now that you’ve tackled money and religion, it’s time to address another perfect dinner table topic: sex. Two blocks south of Plaza Bolivar is theMuseo Larco, which has Peru’s most renowned collection of pre-Colombian ceramics. The centerpiece of the collection is the erotic gallery room; it’s like Pornhub, but with more ceramics. It should go without saying, but this exhibit is certainly not family friendly, and you’ll be shocked by just how naughty some of those little pieces of pottery get. If you do start feeling a little hot under the collar, then at least you can pick up a cold juice outside in the Mercado Central. An excellent spot for people watching or a cheap lunch, the market is best visited on weekends, when it’s at its most lively. Afterwards, check out some G-rated historic artifacts over at the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología e Historia del Perú. It’s right near Plaza Bolivar. Finally, for dessert, hit up the Chocomuseo for an afternoon snack of hot chocolate. If you happen to need some time to kill before dinner, take a stroll around Chinatown. Chinatown itself is a good place to eat if you’re on a budget. For one, it’s the ideal place to sample some Chifa – a local fusion of Chinese and Peruvian food. The well-heeled should schmooze over to the historic Hotel Bolivar for their famed Catedral cocktail, which makes generous use of pisco.
Day 2: Ruins and Beaches
Day 2: Ruins and Beaches
On your second day, get up early and put on your Indiana Jones hat, because you’re heading out to Pachacamac. About 30 kilometers south of Lima, this ancient city isn’t quite as world famous as Machu Picchu, but nonetheless was an important population center of the sprawling Incan Empire and earlier cultures. Founded by the mysterious Lima culture, the city itself first emerged around 1000 years before the Incan Empire was but a twinkle in Manco Cápac’s eye. However, most of Pachacamac’s major structures were built after the decline of the Lima culture but before the Incan invasion, during the height of the Wari civilization between the 9th and 14th centuries. Relics of the Wari period include the site’s stone palaces and imposing pyramids. By late 15th Century, however, the Incan blitzkrieg had flooded over this region of Peru, and the city was annexed into the burgeoning empire somewhere around 1470 AD. Most visitors arrive at Pachacamac in a guided tour from Lima. Getting to the ruins by public transport is a bit bothersome, but certainly doable. Make your way to the intersection of Avenida Miguel Grau and Jirón Andahuaylas, where you’ll find an ugly concrete overpass. From there, there are regular minibuses displaying the sign ‘Pachacamac’. Tell the driver you’re going to the ruins, and expect the trip to take around 45 minutes to an hour. It may take longer depending on whether you get stuck in Lima’s notoriously brutal peak hour traffic. On the plus side, the trip is quite interesting, taking you through central Lima before winding through the city’s ring of slums and into the wide open countryside beyond. The ruins themselves will likely take you around two hours to explore. Ideally, you should be able to make it back to town via the same minibus by lunchtime. The Cliffs of Barranco For a relaxed afternoon, meander over to the Bohemian enclave ofBarranco. This trendy neighborhood is huddled precariously on seaside clifftops, and is a good place for a scenic walk and to pick up a few artsy souvenirs. Once you get tired of exploring this colorful corner of Lima, make your way to one of the clifftop bars for a final pisco and some Peruvian ceviche. Cala Restaurante is a good pick, whileCanta Rana does generous portions with good quality. If you can tear yourself away from the stunning Lima seaside sunset, try to make time to visit El Circuito Mágico del Agua (The Magic Water Circuit). Trying to describe this thing isn’t easy, so let’s just say it’s basically a cross between a waterpark and Pink Floyd concert. The world’s largest complex of water fountains, the Circuito is not to be underestimated for both its enthralling light shows and persistent popularity among locals. Expect to line up for at least an hour to get in, before being overwhelmed by the psychedelic displays of dancing water, multicolored lights and blasting orchestral pieces.
We could think of dozens of reasons why you should visit Finland, but thanks to 40 national parks; 187,888 lakes (yes, really); and the fact that you can swim, sail, fish, forage, and sleep anywhere, highlighting outdoor activities is an absolute must — especially when there’s snow involved. Sure, skiing is an obvious choice, but there are several more unique options to explore that will make you feel like a native Finn in no time. Whether you’re a thrill-seeker, sports enthusiast, or simply someone who enjoys taking in nature, rest assured you’ll find a way to amuse yourself in this unspoilt paradise.
Ice Swimming and Sauna
Ice Swimming and Sauna
You start your day with a cup of coffee, the Fins jump into an icy lake to get their engines running. The theory behind this activity is that after your body gets over the initial shock of being immersed in icy H20, your circulation amps up when you’re back on dry land, thus leaving you feeling refreshed and renewed. This is typically conducted after spending time in a sauna, another common Finnish recreational activity. The tradition of ice swimming (or dipping) has been around since the 17th century — if not longer — and the first “winter swimming clubs” came into existing in the ‘20s. Today, you can dare yourself to take part of this pastime at one of several fashionable bath houses, or by simply taking a dip in one of the copious lakes! Fun fact: The population of Finland is 5.4 million and there are 3.3 million saunas! Where To Try It: Löyly, a stunning sauna on the Baltic sea in Helsinki This sustainable, architectural gem is the brainchild of Avanto Architects. After going through several concept changes, the impressive structure as its known today was finally able to take flight after receiving funding from actor Jasper Pääkkönen. There are three different sauna experiences on offer (all heated with wood) to include a continuously heated sauna, a sauna that’s heated first thing in the morning, and a traditional smoke sauna. In between your steam session, you can relax in a fireplace room with a libation, or literally take a dip in the Baltic sea via an ice hole — aka avanto. Keep in mind that while the changing rooms and showers are gender specific, the sauna spaces are unisex. Stick around for a traditional Finnish meal at the on-site restaurant, and don’t forget to take a look at the sweeping views from the sprawling terrace where you can also sit and relax, weather permitting. Cost: A two-hour booking for the sauna costs 19 and includes a towel, seat cover as well as soap and shampoo.
Arctic Husky Safari
Arctic Husky Safari
Humans have been using dogs to help hunt and transport goods (including supplies during WWII) for hundreds of years. The origins of dog sledding are traced back to Greenland, Siberia, and Alaska, but today it’s become more of a recreational activity in other places around the world, to include Finland. Where To Try It:Hetta Huskies in Lapland The amazing thing about these safaris is that you get the opportunity to control the dogs after receiving a brief lesson by an educated guide who will lead you and your pack through the snowy wilderness. Depending on how much time you want to commit, you can opt for a shorter 6 km route (1.5 hours; 25-55 minutes of driving time), or opt for a longer 12 or 20 km route for increased time behind the reins. If you decide that you become a true mushing enthusiast, there’s always the option to book a multi-day route, complete with lodging. Cost: Starting price is €70 for a shared sleigh; €125 for a solo or guide driven sleigh.
Ice Fishing Via a Snowmobile
Ice Fishing Via a Snowmobile
As long as there have been people in Finland, there’s been ice fishing. From a historical perspective, the thousands of lakes came into the existence after the Ice Age, when glacier and rain waters filled the holes in the earth crust to the tune of two to three kilometers deep. At this juncture, fishing became essential for survival. Among the many different methods for catching fish based on water, season, and species is prehistoric lure-fishing, which literally involves fishing through a carefully crafted hole in the ice. While it still exists today, it’s received a modern-day makeover (a more user-friendly tackle) that you can try out yourself. Where To Try It: In Rovaniemi with Lapland Adventures This one-of-a-kind four-hour excursion starts out with a snowmobile track along the frozen River Ounasjoki where you’ll pass through snowy forests and hilly landscape. When you arrive to a small lake in the midst of the wilderness, it’s truly you, nature, and complete silence, so you’ll want to soak up every unique moment. A guide will lead you through the fishing experience, so no worry if you’re not a pro! Afterwards, you’ll be able to cook your catch over an open fire before heading back into town. Cost: 158 per person aged 15 and older.
Camping Under The Northern Lights
Camping Under The Northern Lights
Catching the Northern Lights (aka the Aurora Borealis) is amongst one of the top goals on any avid traveler’s bucket list. If you want to catch them in Finland, you’ll have the best luck September through March between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. Tips: You are not always guaranteed to see the lights and note that Auroras can be present from anywhere from a few minutes to the entire night. Note that the colors you see and typically less pale than those you see in photographs — and speaking of which, you’ll want to bring a camera with a manual mode, a tripod, and a flashlight if you want sharp images. Where To Try It: Aurora Bubble Sled If you want serious bragging rights, then book an overnight excursion in a heated bubble/mini-hotel room (complete with bean bag chairs and reindeer hides) in the middle of the wilderness in Kilpisjärvi, Finland. You (and your bubble) will be transported to the final destination by snowmobile for an all-nighter. This sui generis experience is available exclusively as a part of a package through Off the Map Travel, an agency that specializes in one-of-a-kind encounters — they also offer an Aurora Floating Experience where you view the lights show while floating on your back in an undisclosed lake. Cost: Enquire within.
Reindeer Rides Via A Sleigh
Reindeer Rides Via A Sleigh
Did you know that the number of reindeers in Lapland is almost equivalent to the number of people? With that in mind, you simply cannot pass up a sleigh ride when in Finland. The history of these docile animals in Finland dates back 500 years-plus. Semi-domesticated, each deer is owned by a herder. Like their hound cousins, these animals are known for their ability to carry extremely heavy loads of goods. Where To Try It: Lapland Welcome Prior to experiencing your very own sleigh ride, you’ll become acquainted with the deer and their herders (via feeding and petting if desired) before cozying-up in a sleigh (complete with blankets) for an unforgettable ride on the grounds. Try your hand at reindeer lasso throwing or experience a (pre-ordered) lunch on the farm.Cost: €99 per person 15 years and under. Transfers to and from included.
Know Before You Go
The snow season in northern Finland begins in November and lasts at least until May. In the inland regions of southern and central Finland, the first snow falls at the beginning of December and melts during late March and April.
During January and February, there is almost always snow in northern and eastern Finland.
The snow season in northern Finland begins in November and lasts at least until April-May. In the inland regions of southern and central Finland, the first snow falls at the beginning of December and melts during March.
If you are planning a winter visit, dress for success. That means an insulated jacket, thermal underwear, a warm hat, thick socks, and gloves.
Note warm clothing is included in guided safaris and other winter excursions so inquire within.
Visit the mainland’s info portal, Visit Finland, for more info.
Once the main port connecting France to its North African possessions, Marseille has long been a melting pot of cultures. The days of colonial rule have come and gone, but the city remains as vibrant and multicultural as ever. These 5 attractions represent the very best of old and new Marseille, based on recent reviews in major travel guides, magazines, and other respected publications.
Perched on the highest natural point in Marseille, the Neo-Byzantine church of Notre-Dame de la Garde numbers among the most prominent and important landmarks in the city. This mid-19th century church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the protectress of sailors and fisherman, and of the entire city. The vaulted crypt features an elegant statue of the Virgin supporting the Christ Child with one hand and proffering a bouquet of flowers with the other. The upper sanctuary is covered with soaring domes decorated with glittering mosaics. Don’t miss the bell tower, which offers panoramic views of the city!
Old Port
Old Port
Flanked by the Panier (Old Town) on one side and Notre-Dame de la Garde on the other, the picturesque Old Port served as the commercial center of Marseille for over two millennia. The main commercial docks have since been moved, but the port remains a thriving harbor for fishing and pleasure boats alike. Visit the artisanal shops selling Marseille soap, sample locally-made pastis, or simply watch the world go by at the many restaurants, cafés, and bars lining the basin. Early birds can enjoy the vast array of fish on offer at the local fish market.
Devoted to the great civilizations of the Mediterranean, this new museum occupies three distinct buildings: the historic Fort Saint-Jean, the ultra-modern J4, and the Center for Conservation and Resources, which is located in the Belle de Mai area of the city, away from the other two sites. On offer are major exhibitions, public lectures, and films, as well as a pleasant café with unrivaled views of the sea.
The abbey of Saint-Victor is one of the oldest monuments in Marseille. Dating primarily to the 12th century, the fortified complex reportedly marks the burial site of Victor of Marseille, a Roman soldier martyred in late antiquity for denouncing idolatry. The massive stone structure houses the relics of Victor, as well as those of other local saints. Of particularly note is the collection of Paleochristian sarcophagi in the crypt and the ornate 17th-century organ in the upper church.
Located less than a mile offshore in the Bay of Marseille, the brooding Château d’If is just a 20-minute ferry ride from the Old Port. This former prison and walled fortress was once home to France’s most reviled criminals, including enemies of the state and religious offenders. It rose to fame in the mid-19th century, when Alexandre Dumas published his renowned novel, The Count of Monte Cristo. The fort preserves the fictional count’s prison cell to this day.
According to the 2009 census, Vietnam’s 86 million people belong to an astonishing 54 government-recognized ethnic groups. Through two floors of cultural artifacts, tools, media displays, dioramas, and more, the museum offers visitors a look inside the everyday lives and traditional practices of these distinct groups.
Full-size model of a Tai Dam (Black Tai) stilt house
One of the most compelling displays in the museum is a full-size stilt house on the second floor. This display allows visitors to explore the architecture and day-to-day domestic life of the Tai Dam ethnic group.
Several flat screen televisions around the museum display activities of the various ethnic groups, including textile weaving, cooking, and funeral and wedding rituals. In addition to these short videos, three-dimensional displays of rituals and ordinary activities seemingly come to life with striking costumes, art, and tools. These scenes, with such intricate details of texture and design, are spirited and lively, allowing you to imagine how they might unfold in the outside world.
Depiction of a religious ceremony paying homage to the Jade Emperor
Water puppets
The museum offers cultural programming, such as the popular water puppet shows. Water puppetry, performed in a pool of water, originated in northern Vietnam and has been performed for centuries as a way to mark important events. The shows are accompanied by live music.
The museum grounds also include a restaurant, coffee shop, gift shop, and bookstore. Guided tours are available in Vietnamese, French, and English. The building and grounds are wheelchair accessible.
The weird and wonderful park lies along the Mekong River as it winds south from Vientiane, the capital of Laos. It is served by an inexpensive bus from the terminal at Talat Sao in Vientiane or can be reached by tuk-tuk, the ubiquitous three-wheeled taxi. There is a small entrance fee.
Construction of the park began in 1958, initiated by Bunleua Sulilat a religious figure who created an idiosyncratic blend of Hinduism and Buddhism. Today, the public park serves as a popular tourist attraction, with visitors from all over the world riding rickety tuk-tuks and local buses to see the magnificent sculptures of animals, gods, and demons.
One of the largest sculptures is also one of the first to catch your attention. To the right of the entrance lies an enormous pumpkin-shaped sculpture, hollowed out with staircases so that visitors may climb to the top for a 360 degree view of the park. To enter the sculpture, visitors must first climb through the mouth of a terrifying demon.
A personal favorite of mine is the massive reclining Buddha, pictured below, which embodies the laid-back, relaxed attitude it behooves a traveler in Laos to take. Many visitors can be seen taking photos imitating this and other curious and impressive sculptures throughout the park.
Budget approximately an hour. Souvenir shops and snack stands can be found near the entrance. There’s seating for the weary sightseer toward the rear of the park along the river.
Beyond the Buddha Park, there’re several worthwhile attractions in and around Vientiane. The Great Sacred Stupa is a must-visit sacred monument emblematic of the country and its people. There’s also the much more recent Patuxai, a monument that celebrates victory over French colonial rule but is conspicuously French in its design — a testament to the complexity of the French legacy in the country.
In sultry Salvador, Brazil’s first capital and third largest city, the vast majority of social life – and socializing – takes place in the streets. Bars and restaurants spill onto sidewalks. Samba jams, pocket shows and mega concerts erupt in squares, parks, and on beaches. Then there’s the city’s legendary Carnaval; it’s billed by the Guinness Book of Records as the largest street party on the planet. In light of this alfresco state of being, it’s not surprising that Salvador has one of Brazil’s most original and appetizing street food scenes.
Bahian street treats
In Salvador, street eats begin at dawn with local women who fuel workers with rice, tapioca and creamy corn mingau (porridge), spiked with cloves and dusted with cinnamon.
Bolinhos de estudante
As the morning progresses, in front of schools and university campuses, students line up to get their sugar fix with bolinhos de estudante. Named in their honor (“student balls”), these deep-fried treats owe their chewy consistency to tapioca flour mixed with coconut milk.
Meanwhile, those with leisure time on their hands can head to one the city’s myriad beaches where vendors, armed with tin can barbecues, grill skewers of queijo coalho. This tangy regional cheese is particularly addictive when doused in oregano and sugar cane molasses. Salvador’s street food scene gathers additional heat, and spice, in the late afternoon, with the release of workers from jobs and kids from school, and the lengthening of shadows on the beach. Suddenly, the air is infused with the heady fragrance of dendê oil – a distinctively pungent smell that is the perfume of Salvador.
Salvador’s favorite “fast food”
Acarajé
The scent of dendê – a species of palm that grows along the coast of Bahia and whose fruits are pressed into oil – is the calling card of acarajé, Salvador’s most iconic and ubiquitous “fast food”. Basically defined, acarajés are tennis ball-sized fritters made from a puree of black-eyed peas that are deep fried – until crisp (on the outside), but fluffy (on the inside) – in crater-sized pots of sizzling orange dendê oil. And that’s just the beginning. Once cooked, acarajés are split open and then comes the fun part – filling them up. Choices include one or all of the following: Vatapá, a thick paste dominated by cashews, shrimp, ginger and coconut milk; Caruru, a puree of diced okra; and Salada, in which finely diced tomatoes are seasoned with onions and cilantro. For an extra real or two, you’ll be blessed with a bonus serving of glistening pink-orange camarão seco, dried shrimp whose salty bite adds an oceanic twist to the proceedings. If you want your acarajé with all the trimmings, ask for a “completo.” Those who like it hot, and put in a request for “quente,” will receive a generous smear of fiery pimenta (malagueta pepper) sauce. Gringos with heat sensitivity issues should make sure their acarajé is served “frio.”
An edible heritage
Baianas
Like much of Salvador’s distinctive local cuisine, acarajés originated in Western Africa where they were known as akara, which in Yoruba translates into “ball of fire.” The recipe crossed the Atlantic with the hundreds of thousands of slaves shipped to work Brazil’s colonial sugar plantations. To this day, acarajés are among many sacred foods eaten during Afro-Brazilian Candomblé ceremonies and presented as offerings to the divinities known as orixás. In fact, many Afro-Bahian women who prepare acarajés on street corners throughout the city are followers of Candomblé. In keeping with tradition, “baianas” are often clad in the white turbans, voluminous hoop skirts, glass beads and bangles worn by mães de santos, or priestesses. As symbols of Bahian culture and identity, baianas have a memorial-museum dedicated to them in the historic Pelourinho district as well as an official day of commemoration on November 25. In 2012, the state government of Bahia declared baianas de acarajé as intangible cultural heritage.
Best of baianas
Oyá Digital’s map of baianas
There are an estimated 4,000 baianas scattered throughout Salvador, all of whom can be digitally located via the Map of Baianas published on oyadigital.com. A handful of these women have become local legends, whose fritter-frying renown has earned them national fame and considerable fortunes. For years now, the reigning triumvirate of baianas has been Dinha, Regina and Cira. All three hold court on outdoor squares in Salvador’s bohemian beachfront hood of Rio Vermelho. Meanwhile, most Salvador residents have their own favorite (more affordable) baianas to whom they are faithful. My own predilections include Neinha, located on a corner of Centro’s main street of Avenida Sete de Setembro, and Luiz, a rare male baiano who has a loyal following in the historic neighborhood of Mouraria. Located on a leafy cobblestoned street, Luiz’s ponto is outfitted with plastic chairs and a wide-screen TV. This set-up allows customers to watch snatches of a soccer game, or the latest political scandal, while chasing their acarajé with an icy beer, or – better yet – a chilled can of Coke (the cola’s sweetness plays surprisingly well off the spice and salt of the acarajé).
Acarajés get a lot of love – and press. However, most baianas also serve equally enticing, yet mysteriously unsung abarás, made of pureed black-eyed peas that are boiled instead of deep fried. After being mashed, the thick bean paste is densely packed and then elegantly wrapped in banana leaves to seal in the moisture. The resulting taste sensation skews smooth and silky and is more delicate than acarajé. Happily, all the same delicious fillings apply.
Every year for for the past 70, the Festival Fringe has filled Edinburgh’s streets with innovative performances of all kinds. The Fringe, as the Scots call it, is unique because it’s open to anyone with a story to tell and a venue willing to host. This format means you’ll see performers from across the talent spectrum, but that’s part of what makes the whole thing spectacular in the truest sense.
The Fringe always spans 25 days. This year, it’s from August 4th to August 28th that performers who have put their blood, sweat, and tears into their art will take over the Scottish capital. Streets in the vicinity of the historic Royal Mile will close to traffic and bars, bookstores and storefronts will transform into stages. So also will telephone booths, the backs of cabs — at the Fringe, each nook and cranny offers a stage to every conceivable manifestation of the performing arts. Larger venues, like King’s Theatre and Edinburgh International Conference Center, will host an array of scheduled events ranging from musical theatre, stand-up comedy, and children’s shows, to exhibitions, cabaret, and spoken word. Underbelly, one of the Fringe’s largest venue operations, also manages a number of venues cityward.
Practical info
Fancy playing a role in the Fringe yourself? The organizers offer a number of helpful guides, including one for putting on a show. For those coming to spectate, note that artists continue to book for the Fringe 2017, but many shows are already selling tickets. The full program will be available online June 7th and you can follow the Fringe on social mediafor updates.
Where to eat
You’ll no doubt work up an appetite at the Fringe. There’re food carts of all kinds offering everything from crêpes to kebabs and of course, to slake your thirst, there’re makeshift beer gardens and pop-up bars. Culinary experiences-cum-performances like that of George Egg, comedian and “anarchist cook,” have delighted in the past and promise to do so again this year.
We also recommend a handful of Edinburgh’s best restaurants, most convenient to the Fringe:
The Dogsoffers hearty British fare at reasonable prices, aiming at a bohemian and sustainable vibe.
Ondine is a top seafood restaurant not at all far from the action and one of Lonely Planet’s top choices. They pride themselves on sustainable sourcing.
Hendersons is a centrally located vegetarian go-to that’s been serving up meat-free favorites since the 1960s.
The Witcheryitself exudes theatricality, perfect for the Festival, with its candlelit, medievalish interior. The food is the star. On offer is “traditional/new-wave Scottish cuisine, such as rabbit stuffed with black pudding or Scottish oysters and langoustines”.
Where to stay
The Fringe brings thousands and thousands to the Scottish capital, which means space is at a premium and it’s wise to book in advance. Here are our recommendations, proximate to the Fringe’s most popular venues and fit for a range of budgets.
The Balmoral Hotel is a sumptuous Victorian five-star hotel, well-located in New Town, a ten minute walk from both the New Town Theatre and the Edinburgh Festival Theatre.
G&V Royal Mile Hotel Edinburgh, in old town, brought to you by Italian fashion house Missoni, meaning it’s a “cool and contemporary” contrast to the more Gothic surroundings.
The Witchery by the Castlenot only made our restaurant list, but comes recommended as a “flamboyant and fabulously gothic bolthole,” adding drama to your Fringe visit.
The Rutland, our top midrange pick in the area, is a stylish boutique hotel with amazing views.
Safestay Edinburgh is our top choice in the budget category. Lonely Planet calls it a “bright, modern hostel that feels more like a hotel.”
