Category Archives: Destinations

Destinations

Weekend getaway to Cambridge, UK

Before I first arrived in Cambridge, I had visions of Hogwarts-like grandeur, medieval pubs, secret gardens and endless tea and Pimm’s by the river. And that’s exactly what I found. Just 45 minutes from London by train, this charming, ancient university town is the perfect weekend getaway or easy day-trip. While the area was settled in antiquity, the Cambridge you’ll see today has its roots as a university town, which grew up around Cambridge University, founded in 1209. Notable alums include Charles Darwin, Stephen Hawking and Ian McKellen alongside a staggering  96 Nobel laureates. It’s impossible not to be impressed by the history of the place, and you’ll find the city charming in every season.

So, what to do with a weekend in Cambridge?

Saturday

Start your visit right with a quick breakfast sandwich or homemade pastry and mug of fresh coffee at Hot Numbers on Trumpington St. – a cozy student favorite.

Head up the road and you’ll hit the cobbled King’s Parade, which winds past some of the university’s oldest and most visually striking colleges. Check out Corpus Christi on the right and then King’s, Trinity and St. John’s on the left. While the University has 31 colleges, if you only have time to visit one, better make it King’s. Founded in 1441, the campus’ dramatic Gothic architecture is definitely worth a stop (and the £9.00 admissions charge). Your ticket will include entrance to King’s College Chapel, a truly stunning building that took over a century to complete and features the largest fan vault ceiling in the world.

The fan vault ceiling of King’s College Chapel

On your way out, head left down King’s Parade and through St. Mary’s Passage to the Market Square, where you’ll find a food, goods and crafts market in operation in that very spot since medieval times. There’re lots of independent galleries and boutiques in the cobbled streets around the market, so I’d recommend exploring the area.

Grab some lighter fare in the market itself (there’re usually stands serving up falafel, paella, dumplings and Thai noodles), or stop for a sit-down lunch at one of the nearby restaurants. SmokeWorks serves up delicious barbeque, even by American standards. Indigo Coffee House is a hidden gem tucked away in St. Edward’s Passage, with great sandwiches, cakes and coffee.

Market Square

Punting along the River Cam is a charming Cambridge tradition and a great way to see some of the city’s highlights like the picturesque Bridge of Sighs and unique Mathematical Bridge. Companies like Cambridge Chauffeur Punts and Scudamore’s offer punt tours or, if you’ve got the urge for independence (and some traction on your shoes!), self-hire. Feel free to grab snacks and a drink – maybe even a cheeky pitcher of Pimm’s from a riverside pub – for the ride. If you’d rather walk along the banks instead, follow signs to the Backs, a path that winds along the river and takes you past lovely views (and the occasional herd of cows). Not punting or strolling weather? Head to The Mill pub and play games by the fire.  

Punting on the Cam

Cambridge Brew House is a great option for dinner, especially for anyone looking to test out the local beer scene. Try home-brewed beers and interesting takes on English classics, including their range of “British tapas.” If you’re feeling a little “pubbed out,” head to Thai Khun instead, a go-to for tasty Thai street-food in a space reminiscent of a Bangkok street market, minus the traffic.
The Eagle Pub is a must-see, especially for history buffs, and a nice spot to cap off the night. It attracts a lot of tourists, but for good reason: opened in 1667, this cozy warren of rooms offers you the chance to sip a pint in the booth where Watson and Crick announced they had discovered the structure of DNA. Also make sure to check out the WWII-era graffiti all over the walls and ceilings of the “RAF room.”

The Eagle Pub

Sunday

Make your way to Clarendon Arms, a rustic pub where on Sundays they serve up one thing and one thing only – and boy, do they do it well. Their Sunday roast – a veritable tower of meat, vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and gravy – is on my personal list of all-time favorite meals and the perfect cure if you’ve had one too many pints the previous night. A vegetarian “roast” is also available. Across Parker’s Piece (hallowed ground to any sports fan: it’s where the precursor to modern soccer/football was first played) from the center of town, the walk gives you a chance to work up the appetite you’ll need. Make sure you reserve in advance!
Head back to town and check out the Fitzwilliam Museum – an impressive collection of the university’s arts and antiquities collections. Cambridge University also has a number of small, quirky museums hidden around campus, all free to the public: my personal favorites are the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology and the Polar Museum.

The Fitzwilliam Museum

A few blocks down Trumpington St. from the Fitzwilliam you’ll find Fitzbillies. Nip in for a cup of tea and a Chelsea bun – decadent but well worth it.  

Just up the road are the Cambridge University Botanic Gardens, home to more than 8,000 species of plant. Let yourself be transported to the tropics with a stop in the Palm House.

Head to dinner at The Old Bicycle Shop on Regent St., where they serve up locally sourced fare and creative cocktails in a rustic space that can only be summed up as “cycling chic.”

Cambridge University Botanic Gardens

Where to stay

Hotel du Vin Cambridge: Historic university buildings converted into an elegant but homey boutique hotel.

St. John’s College: Bed and breakfast accommodations in an impressive 16th century building in one of the university’s oldest colleges. Only available outside of term.

Arundel House Hotel: A tastefully converted row of Victorian houses overlooking the river Cam, just minutes from the center.

The Varsity Hotel & Spa: Centrally located, modern hotel with elements of classic Cambridge charm.

Hotel du Vin

Destinations

Stay classy in Singapore without breaking the bank

There’s no denying that Singapore is a glorious place to visit, but all that glamour comes with a stiff price tag. For a vacationer on a set budget, it’s easy to come unstuck in one of the world’s most expensive countries. It doesn’t all have to be so pricey, though; all it takes to keep costs down is some planning and foresight. Just because you don’t have jet-set funds doesn’t mean you can’t have a blast within your means on this 277-square-mile tropical playground.

Staying

While its neighbours Malaysia and Indonesia offer good accommodation at a reasonable price, Singapore isn’t so generous. Four-star rooms in Malaysia can be half the price of their Singaporean counterparts — so why not stay in one? It’s surprisingly easy to travel to Singapore from Johor Bahru (JB), Malaysia’s biggest southern city — in fact, tens of thousands of Malaysian workers do so every day by train, crossing the half-mile causeway bridge between downtown JB and Singapore. Several services operate in both directions daily and cost less than $4 a trip. The journey takes five minutes and you can clear both countries’ immigration counters at Woodlands station, on the Singaporean side. If you miss the last train back (11pm), a taxi to JB will still cost far less than the savings you’ve made on accommodation.

Johor Bahru, Malaysia

Eating

Singapore’s 29 Michelin-starred restaurants suggest that this is a nation with a taste for fine cuisine. And judging by the packed crab and lobster restaurants around Clarke Quay every night, which can charge upwards of $100 for a crustacean, there are plenty of people in Singapore who can afford to eat extravagantly. But it doesn’t have to be so.

Singapore is quite rightly celebrated for its astonishing blend of local, Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisines, which are available on huge plates for a couple of bucks at a vast number of “hawker centres” across the island. This is where real Singaporeans eat, and many say that the food they sell—often prepared by third-generation stallholders—is just as good as you will find in a swanky restaurant. Top tip: Singaporeans are willing to wait in line for a long time to get the best food, so follow their lead and always pick the longest line.

Clarke Quay

Drinking

Many travellers like a tipple, but it’s hard to enjoy sipping on a drink when you’re fretting over the colossal size of your impending bill: in Singapore it is bound to be a big one. The island’s most famous cocktail, the Singapore sling, at the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, where it was invented, will set you back around $23. A survey last year found Singapore, where a pint of Heineken will usually cost around $15, to be behind only Hong Kong in terms of beer prices in Asia.

As long as you plan ahead, though, it is possible to get your buzz on more cheaply. Irrespective of what time it is, there will always be a happy hour going on somewhere in Singapore, and some of these offer fantastic deals. Check out Brewerkz at Riverside Point between noon and 3pm for some strong afternoon craft brews, made on the premises, for just $4 (later on, the price almost trebles). At night, Chupitos on Clarke Quay is well known for its sub-$1 shots with flavours changing every week. For those who like a drink, the local listings magazines are a good source for planning a happy-hour bar-crawl.

Brewerkz

Doing

For those who like to explore, Singapore has two substantial things going for it. First, though the island sprawls, the bits you actually want to see are quite compact and easily strollable. Secondly, many of the best sites are either free to enter or charge a token price. It is less than 3 miles from Little India to China Town, yet between these two points lie many of Singapore’s historical, cultural and architectural gems — the eating and shopping aren’t shabby either. At the end of your jaunt you can take in the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, which is free and fantastic. Try to avoid taxis, which run such a byzantine system of fares that it is rare to find two cars charging the same rate. Instead, the MRT subway is cheap and extremely efficient and will probably get you to within a couple of hundred yards of your destination.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Timing

Don’t stay too long! Singapore doesn’t really merit more than a three-day visit for even the most laid-back traveller, so you could easily find yourself with too much time on your hands. Instead, you can add a couple of new stamps to your passport by taking an hour-long ferry ($6.50) to the Indonesian island of Batam, south of Singapore, or catch a train north to Malaysia. Though it will take much longer than a flight, you could even get a sleeper all the way up to Bangkok (48 hours, $60), which provides an incredible way to see the region and allows you to get off at various points on your trip.

Batam

Attractions, Destinations

Edinburgh Festival Fringe at 70: What to know and where to stay

Every year for for the past 70, the Festival Fringe has filled Edinburgh’s streets with innovative performances of all kinds. The Fringe, as the Scots call it, is unique because it’s open to anyone with a story to tell and a venue willing to host. This format means you’ll see performers from across the talent spectrum, but that’s part of what makes the whole thing spectacular in the truest sense.

The Fringe always spans 25 days.  This year, it’s from August 4th to August 28th that performers who have put their blood, sweat, and tears into their art will take over the Scottish capital. Streets in the vicinity of the historic Royal Mile will close to traffic and bars, bookstores and storefronts will transform into stages. So also will telephone booths, the backs of cabs — at the Fringe, each nook and cranny offers a stage to every conceivable manifestation of the performing arts. Larger venues, like King’s Theatre and Edinburgh International Conference Center, will host an array of scheduled events ranging from musical theatre, stand-up comedy, and children’s shows, to exhibitions, cabaret, and spoken word.  Underbelly, one of the Fringe’s largest venue operations, also manages a number of venues cityward.

Practical info

Fancy playing a role in the Fringe yourself?  The organizers offer a number of helpful guides, including one for putting on a show.  
For those coming to spectate, note that artists continue to book for the Fringe 2017, but many shows are already selling tickets. The full program will be available online June 7th and you can follow the Fringe on social media for updates.

Where to eat

You’ll no doubt work up an appetite at the Fringe.  There’re  food carts of all kinds offering everything from crêpes to kebabs and of course, to slake your thirst, there’re makeshift beer gardens and pop-up bars.  Culinary experiences-cum-performances like that of George Egg, comedian and “anarchist cook,” have delighted in the past and promise to do so again this year. 
We also recommend a handful of Edinburgh’s best restaurants, most convenient to the Fringe:

The Dogs offers hearty British fare at reasonable prices, aiming at a bohemian and sustainable vibe.

Ondine is a top seafood restaurant not at all far from the action and one of Lonely Planet’s top choices.  They pride themselves on sustainable sourcing.

Hendersons is a centrally located vegetarian go-to that’s been serving up meat-free favorites since the 1960s.

The Witchery itself exudes theatricality, perfect for the Festival, with its candlelit, medievalish interior.  The food is the star.  On offer is “traditional/new-wave Scottish cuisine, such as rabbit stuffed with black pudding or Scottish oysters and langoustines”.

Where to stay

The Fringe brings thousands and thousands to the Scottish capital, which means space is at a premium and it’s wise to book in advance.  Here are our recommendations, proximate to the Fringe’s most popular venues and fit for a range of budgets.

The Balmoral Hotel is a sumptuous Victorian five-star hotel, well-located in New Town, a ten minute walk from both the New Town Theatre and the Edinburgh Festival Theatre.

 G&V Royal Mile Hotel Edinburgh, in old town, brought to you by Italian fashion house Missoni, meaning it’s a “cool and contemporary” contrast to the more Gothic surroundings.

The Witchery by the Castle not only made our restaurant list, but comes recommended as a “flamboyant and fabulously gothic bolthole,” adding drama to your Fringe visit.

The Rutland, our top midrange pick in the area, is a stylish boutique hotel with amazing views.

Safestay Edinburgh is our top choice in the budget category.  Lonely Planet calls it a  “bright, modern hostel that feels more like a hotel.”

Destinations

Summer roadtripping in Iceland

Imagine driving through a wild and spacious landscape that could easily stand in for Middle Earth, a land where roadside waterfalls tumble from towering mountains and spill into the glassy sea. Imagine a land where shaggy sheep and wild horses roam free, where steam rises from the earth, and where a spongy carpet of previously unknown shades of green cover vast and eerie lava fields. Imagine an island of friendly people, where Vikings are still remembered, and where the midnight sun never sets. This is Iceland in the summer, and it’s the perfect place for an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime road trip.

Renting a Car 

The easiest place to rent a car in Iceland is at Keflavik International Airport outside of Reykjavik, Iceland’s largest city. As it is with everything else on the island, renting a car is very expensive, but the freedom of having your own wheels is worth the high price. Expect to pay $500 to $700 per week for a small car. Unless you’re planning to go off-road or need extra space for camping gear, a compact car is the best option. The main roads in Iceland are generally in excellent shape, and since fuel is expensive (the equivalent of about US$7.50 per gallon), a small car with good gas mileage will save you some money. It’s a good idea to reserve a car in advance and to purchase extra insurance. The folks at the airport car rental counters, like most Icelanders, speak perfect English and are very helpful. While there are gas stations all over the island, most of them require a card with a pin number to pay at the pump.

The Reykjanes Peninsula and Reykjavik

Keflavik Airport is only a 40-minute drive from Reykjavik, which is an ideal base to start your Iceland adventure and must-see city in its own right. But before you head into the city, passing through the peninsula’s thrilling, alien lava fields, consider stopping first at the world-famous Blue Lagoon, which is about 20 minutes from the airport. An 8,700-square-meter pool of milky-blue seawater heated to perfection by a nearby geothermal plant, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s top attractions and it should not be missed. Here you can soak away your air-travel blues, cover your body in healing silica, and relax with fellow tourists from all over the world. You must make a reservation in advance.
For those interested in Iceland’s folklore about the mysterious Huldufólk (Hidden Folk) — elves and other mysterious beings which are said to live unseen in the lava rocks — a stop at the quaint town of Hafnarfjordur is a must. About 30 minutes from the Blue Lagoon and 20 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small seaside town trades on its reputation for having one of the largest concentrations of Huldufólk in Iceland. The local tourist center sells maps of Huldufólk sites and even offers tours led by a local expert.
Next it’s on to Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city, which has only about 120,000 residents. But don’t let its relatively small size fool you: Reykjavik is a world-class destination, with plenty of excellent restaurants, shops, and hotels, unique architecture and museums, and a fun, youthful nightlife. Most tourists spend time in the city’s pedestrian-friendly downtown and along the nearby waterfront. Don’t miss having lunch or dinner at the casual Saegreifinn (Sea Baron) by the harbor. Here they serve what might well be the world’s best lobster soup.
For your home away from home, consider the Hotel Borg, an Art Deco gem in central Reykjavik which offers luxurious, elegant and historic accommodations. Or, just a 10-minute drive from the center of town, the high-rise Grand Hotel Reykjavik has a sleek, modern atmosphere, a relaxing spa and excellent views of the small city.

The Golden Circle

Iceland’s most popular and can’t-miss attractions are all easily accessible by car from Reykjavik along a 300 kilometer route called the Golden Circle. If you leave Reykjavik in the morning, it’s possible to do the whole route in one day, with frequent stops for photographs.
The first stop along the route is Thingvellir National Park, a breathtaking, dramatic landscape of imposing natural rock cliffs, rushing waterfalls and long views of a beautiful rift valley. In Iceland’s old Viking days, beginning around 930 AD, Thingvellir was the site of the Allthing, an annual summer gathering where farmers and chieftains would meet to make laws and settle legal cases.
About an hour from Thingvellir look for the misty geothermal wonderland along the side of the road. It’s called Geysir and you can’t miss it — there’ll be a crowd of awe-inspired tourists and steam everywhere. Though the main blowhole known as Geysir is no longer active, a smaller one erupts about every seven minutes, and it’s a thrilling experience to be there when it does.
Another 15 minutes along the Golden Circle you’ll find Gullfoss Falls, a wide, steep and misty two-stage waterfall that simply must be seen to be believed. It’s a short walk down to the edge of the falls, which is the most popular waterfall in a land chock full of falling and tumbling water.

Other road trips from Reykjavik

Though Reykjavik and the Golden Circle are the island’s most popular tourist destinations, there are many other wondrous places in Iceland that can be easily and safely reached by car, including:

  • The Snaefellsnes Peninsula and Snæfellsjökull, a volcano topped with a glacier made famous as the entrance to a hidden world beneath the earth in Jules Verne’s 1864 novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. This region is about a 2.5-hour drive northwest of Reykjavik.
  • Ísafjörður, a small seaside town about a 5.5-hour drive northwest from Reykjavik, is the largest population center in the gorgeous Westfjords region. This region is not on the usual tourist itinerary, but the scenery alone is worth the relatively long drive. You’ll loop around several fjords on your way through the green and sweeping landscape, and there seems to be an outlandishly beautiful waterfall rushing from the roadside cliffs every few miles. Make sure to keep an eye out for lazy seals lounging on rocks out on the calm sea. Quirky and fascinating attractions in this area include the Museum of Witchcraft and Sorcery in Hólmavík, and the Arctic Fox Center in Súðavík, which celebrates, studies and protects Iceland’s only native mammal.
  • For a truly epic adventure, take a week or more and drive the the Ring Road, also known as Route 1. This 1,322 kilometer paved circle leads around the edge of the entire island, passing by most of the many, many wonders that Iceland has to offer.
Destinations

The best of Chicago's cheap eats

Talk to any Chicago native, or any lover of this great city, really, and you’ll be treated to tales of mammoth pizzas that are impossible to eat without a fork, ethnic cuisine with a history you can still taste and what is quite possibly the country’s best hot dog. You don’t need to break the bank to get your fill in this destination, however, and you’ll find some of the greatest bites are also some of the most affordable.

Deep dish pizza

Let’s just get the basics out of the way first. No trip to Chicago is complete without at least several helpings of cheesy, thick, gooey, mouthwatering Chicago-style deep dish pizza. The two highly acclaimed pizzerias in the city are Pizzeria Uno and Gino’s. However, Pizzeria Uno claims that they’re the original creator, serving up pies since 1943. There’s typically a wait to be seated in the small dining room, which still has a vintage, old-school Italian restaurant feel, but the experience is well worth it. You can get a personal-size deep dish for a little over $7.

If Pizzeria Uno is an old-school Italian dive, Gino’s East is an eclectic, graffiti-covered hot spot. Just as the ambience is remarkably different, so is the pizza. While Gino’s still offers that hearty, rib-sticking goodness, there are a few key flavor differences, one being the crust, which incorporates cornmeal for a crunchier texture.

Cheezborger, cheezborger, cheezborger!

The Billy Goat Tavern is tucked underneath Magnificent Mile, in a location that may seem slightly sketchy to out-of-towners if headed there after dark. No worries, you’ll find you’re in good company at this institution. They offer the perfect greasy burger-and-fries combo that you desperately need after a long night on the town and a comfortable ambience that makes you feel right at home. You may recognize the tavern from its SNL fame, which was sparked by the Cheezborger skit featuring Billy Murray, John Belushi and Dan Aykroyd, or maybe you recognize the former Billy Goat as the same that cursed the Cubs in 1945. Regardless, if you don’t know this Chicago spot now, you will soon, and your wallet will thank you for it, as cheeseburgers start at just around $3.

The country’s top dog?

Gene & Jude’s has been serving up hot dogs in their little mom-and-pop shop since the 1940s. They’ve been featured as the best of the best in everything from Reader’s Digest to Rachael Ray Every Day, and have made appearances on a variety of TV shows. Dogs are served up simple — with no ketchup, piled high with mustard, onions, relish and a pickled pepper, with a side of fries. They’re obviously best enjoyed with a cold beer.

Getcha popcorn!

Of course, sometimes you’re only in the mood for a small snack to keep you going as you explore the Chicago streets. If that’s the case, look no further than any one of the Garrett Popcorn shops scattered around the city. The striped storefronts aren’t easy to miss, and once you have a bit, you’ll soon spot the matching bags everywhere, as this sweet and salty treat is a tourist favorite. There’s a huge variety of flavors to choose from, whether you want something a little spicy or extremely decadent and covered in chocolate. The best part? If you develop a craving after you’ve left the Windy City, you can have a gallon tin delivered straight to your doorstep.

Where’s the beef?

Chicago was home to a multitude of Italian immigrants back in the day, and they brought along some amazingly delightful dinner options with them. Johnnie’s Beef is all about the Italian beef sandwiches, dipped and then topped with your choice of peppers. The small eatery is a local favorite and has been recognized by a large variety of foodie stars. Hey, if it’s good enough for Anthony Bourdain, it’s good enough for you. The affordable price is just a plus.

Destinations

Take a tapas tour of Madrid

According to some legends the iconic eating style of Spain originated in the south of the country where a crusty slice of bread was placed on top of your beer or wine to keep the flies out. The term tapa comes from the verb tapar, which literally means to cover, so this has us convinced! This tradition later included topping the bread with a paper thin slice of jamon or rubbing it with tomato and drenching it in olive oil.

This is a custom that the south of Spain takes more seriously – in fact, it’s pure luck when you’re given a tapa with a drink in Madrid! So, you will typically need to order a portion or two from the menu which is often standing up on bar counters or scrawled on a chalkboard behind the counter. First, let’s go through the lingo you’ll need to know.

Talk the tapas talk

Tapa is a single portion and is a great way to taste your way through the many flavors of the city. For a long Spanish night of tapas as dinner, I suggest having two to three tapas with each glass of wine to make sure you can keep pace with the locals and end your night as the sun comes up!

A ración (ration) is meant for sharing and will usually serve two to three people, though if you’re having them as dinner plan to order one for each person in the group plus one. So a party of three would order four raciónes and this would be a very good start.

A plato is the main plate. If you find something you truly love then go ahead and order the full plate—it’s common to share this size dish among friends and family, too. Depending on the restaurant, some foods like paella are made-to-order only so you would need to order a full portion to try it.

Look for the messy bars

Don’t worry about a floor littered with toothpicks, napkins, and olive pits. It’s a traditional marketing method used by many bars. Depending on the bar, you too can feel free to toss your trash on the floor as you leave so clients know the place is well-loved and often visited, but make sure it’s the bar’s custom as some high-end places frown on this in favor of keeping the chic vibe.

What to eat, where to eat it

Some of the best bars simply won’t have a menu in English—or a menu at all—but don’t let this dissuade you from walking in and trying some of the best delicacies. Those without menus will have the tapas displayed in their cold case on the bar, just point to what you’d like, order your drink and post up at a table like you own the place. There are some things that you really should try while in Madrid and topping that list is a deep-fried and delicious serving of patatas bravas.

Patatas bravas

Oh man. Crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, covered in aioli and bravas sauce (like a creamy yet slightly spicy ketchup) patatas bravas are served with a toothpick and are best with beer. Enjoy a tapa-sized serving at first because they are quite filling, and there’s more on the list to try! A guilty pleasure for patatas bravas is El Tigre bar which fills up with bargain-hunting locals and expats alike. It’s one of the places in Madrid where tapas are given free with each purchase, so enjoy this southern hospitality, but save room for more bars.

Tortilla de patata

Bar Cerveriz holds the current title for best tortilla de patata in Madrid. This is a small family-run bar across the main entry of the Mercado de San Miguel. This humble interior boasts several awards hung on the wall though nothing else about the decor would tip you off that you’re in the presence of incredible food. Order a slice of tortilla, which is like a potato frittata only much more delicious, and try a glass of Asturian cider to wash it down. Notice how they pour the cider from over a meter high to aerate it and add a nice frothy head. Now this is Madrid.

Champiñones a la plancha

Few things are as delicious as freshly grilled button mushrooms marinated in garlic olive oil. Calle Cava de San Miguel number 17 holds the ticket to some of the best fungi in the city at Mesón del Champiñón. Tuck into this tiny space and snag a barstool if one’s available. On this street, you will find several little taverns that specialize in one thing, and take it to the limit. Next door the Mesón del Boquerón serves vinegar and garlic anchovies day and night to their adoring public.

Pimientos de Padrón

Small, wrinkly, and oftentimes charred to a nearly black perfection, pimientos de Padrón have worked their way onto most tapas menus and into the heart of the Spanish. In fact, they’ve even earned themselves a little rhyme, “pimientos de Padrón, unos pican, otros non.”
Padrón peppers, some burn, some don’t. 
So take care when you’re tucking into these semi-sweet chilis as one in ten will be spicy. These are frequent on the menu at La Casa del Abuelo and with good reason — they really jumpstart your appetite.

Calamares

Though hours from the ocean Madrid is home to some of the best calamari in Madrid. Of course, you need to know where to find it. In the Plaza Mayor, there’s a small little exit which looks like nothing more than an archway; this is actually Calle Botoneras and it is home to La Ideal, the ideal place to grab a calamari sandwich for a quick, delicious, and very filling lunch. For tapas, simply order a ration of calamari and – if your luck holds out – enjoy the scene from a table. It can be a bit tricky to get a spot inside and the incredibly low prices draw locals by the hundreds per hour.

Something for your sweet tooth

For a sweet end to any evening stop for one last drink at Casa Lucio and order a bottle of Spain’s claim to sparkling wine fame, cava. Enjoy Raventós i Blanc Brut Nature Gran Reserva with a slice of the traditional tarta de santiago, an almond cake, that hails from Santiago de Compostela.

Pst, you can enjoy a little tapa for breakfast, too. Take a page from the local’s book and head to La Mallorquina for some excellent freshly baked pastries. Don’t be put off by the crowds at the bar, simply elbow your way up and order. My favorite? A napolitana de chocolate pastry and black coffee. “Una napolitana y café solo, por favor.”

So go on, take a bite out of Madrid, I promise it’s delicious! Buen provecho!

Destinations

The breathtaking beauty of western South Dakota

When many people think of South Dakota, Mount Rushmore is oftentimes the first—and perhaps only—thing that comes to mind. That’s a real shame, because this Great Plains state is home to some of the most striking scenery in the country and an array of wholly unique attractions, altogether comprising one of the most underrated regions in the United States. The Western portion of the state, home to the Badlands and the Black Hills, is accessible via Rapid City Regional Airport. All it takes is a rental car and a sense of adventure.

A city on the rise

Rapid City is the urban hub of Western South Dakota, an area on the ascent in terms of development and cultural institutions, all while retaining a charming downtown landscape and a palpable sense of antiquity. Located a mere 10 miles from the airport along SD-44 W, it’s also easy to get to for most travelers. Nicknamed the “City of Presidents,” the modest city juxtaposes history with modernity in a way uncommonly seen in American towns.

This is evidenced by presidential statues dotting the sidewalks and the longstanding Hotel Alex Johnson, a prominent luxury property opened in 1928 with an allegedly haunted past. For the timid, rumored sightings of the benevolent Lady in White and a young girl have been confined to the eighth floor, so stay elsewhere in the 11-story property and you’ll sleep soundly.

History is also on full display at well established Native American businesses like the expansive Prairie Edge Trading Co. and Galleries, which pays homage to local Lakota history and artisans via books, quilts, jewelry and lots more. Don’t miss the Journey Museum and Learning Center either, which takes visitors on a time-traveling tour of the region’s Native American heritage in inspiring ways, from Black Hills geology to clothing and weapons fashioned by the Sioux Indian people.

While Rapid City is proudly rooted in its ancient heritage, it’s also segueing nicely into a new era by blending in modern establishments and exciting developments. Case in point, the city’s home to South Dakota’s first brewery, Firehouse Brewing Company, which features a rotating array of brews on tap in an old firehouse building. There are also cool new spots like Press Start, a subterranean arcade bar bursting with ‘80’s and ‘90’s nostalgia, and The Blind Lion, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge manned by dexterous mixologists in a clandestine location downtown. For entry, your best bet is to visit Murphy’s Pub & Grill, and ask a server. While strolling downtown, swing by Main Street Square, a beautiful new public space that features live concerts, ice skating in the winter and other cultural affairs.

Firehouse Brewing Company

Main Street Square

The Badass Badlands

If you think you have an idea of what to expect from the Badlands, just wait. Situated roughly 63 miles from Rapid City, right off I-90 E, the eye-popping national park spans 244,000 acres of roving hiking trails, roadways, canyons and buttes comprised of clay soil and sedimentary rock. It’s as if the Grand Canyon combined with Mars; the terrain looks and feels like nothing else on the planet. The best part is how hands-on the park is, as visitors are able to hike and camp just about anywhere in the Badlands—just watch out for rattlesnakes and the occasional surly bison. There are also several designated hiking paths to hit up, including one with a somewhat intimidating ladder scaling the side of a canyon.

Wall Drug

Just outside the Badlands, off SD-240 E, is Wall Drug, an iconic roadside attraction in Western South Dakota. It’s pretty impossible to miss, considering the highways leading up to it are lined with quirky billboards practically every 10 seconds. It’s worth a stopover for its dizzying souvenir shops, apothecary and quaint chapel that looks like something out of a Quentin Tarantino movie. There’s also a giant jackalope and animatronic T-Rex, because why not, and a cafe churning out delicious fresh donuts all day long.

Exploring the Black Hills

Driving towards the Black Hills national forest from the Badlands, about 103 miles back through Rapid City along I-90 W, terrain shifts from arid desert to lush trees, glistening lakes and dark, rolling mountains. It’s hard to believe the same region can lay claim to two such disparate landscapes, but it’s a testament to South Dakota’s unique natural beauty. This is where you’ll find Mount Rushmore, a rightful bucket list item for many a traveler, and most definitely worth a visit for its prominence in American history. But beyond the familiar, there’s much to explore in the Black Hills.

Under construction since 1948, Crazy Horse will be the largest mountain sculpture in the world when it’s finally complete. For reference, the entirety of Mount Rushmore would be able to fit inside Crazy Horse’s head. Designed to honor North American Indians and revered Lakota leaders like Crazy Horse, the carving is quite overwhelming and moving. There’s a visitor center at the foot of the mountain packed with paraphernalia and history, where attendees can learn about the family-operated endeavor and the rich Native American lore behind it. Occasional traditional Native American dances and demonstrations take place as well, providing an engaging way to get acquainted with the region’s heritage.

While towns like Custer are fairly prominent in the Black Hills, one that’s less familiar is Hill City. The charming town sports a bustling main street lined with saloons, inns and varying shops, and the 1880 Train is a blast from the bygone past for passengers looking to chug their way through the hills and forest to the town of Keystone. For those with an itch for hiking, the Mickelson Trail that winds through Hill City is requisite. The 109-mile trail is among the longest in the country, converted from former train tracks to a tour de force of the Black Hills for hikers, cyclists, walkers and cross-country skiers. You’ll meander under tunnels carved into mountain sides, over bridges, through fields and get up close and personal with nature at its most pristine.

For visitors looking for a bit of interactive entertainment, check out Rush Mountain Adventure Park, a family-friendly destination in Keystone with a cave tour, zipline and brand new hillside roller coaster. The cave is a great option for underground novices, as it’s a relatively short tour through a handful of subterranean rooms. Hit up the two-person zipline ride, which rockets you down over the parking lot and back, then buckle up for a coaster ride.

Rush Mountain Adventure Park

Unlike typical roller coasters, this sports one- or two-person carts that allow passengers to control their own speed with levers, affording a fantastic and thrilling way to drink in the mountain sights as fast or as slow as you’d like.

From the old to the new, and through impressively diverse landscape, the Western region of South Dakota proves itself to be an essential travel destination for visitors of all types.

Destinations

Hot bread after dark on Molokaʻi

Silence and darkness battle for dominance in Kaunakakai, a small town on the southeastern shore of the Hawaiian island of Moloka`i. A dim yellow street lamp comes to life and knocks darkness off its game, and silence gains the lead.

It’s 9:30 p.m. and I’m sitting in my rental car, no one else in sight. I get out, spend a minute in the dark, and revel in the feeling of lingering on the street alone in the shadows of a ghost town. Feels odd, but I’ve got a craving, and I’m going to get my fix. Being here in the dark at Hotel Lane is different than what I might be waiting for at, say, Hotel Street in Honolulu. It defies stereotypes of traditional hedonistic pleasures sought out from back alley peddlers.
Down this narrow passageway that weaves between modest homes and turn of the century structures lies another kind of indulgence. It’s squeaky clean, appropriate for all ages, and legal: dessert.

The alleyway leading from Kanemitsu Bakery

By day, unassuming Kanemitsu Bakery offers the expected homestyle fare of breakfast, deli items, coffee, and pastries. Lonely Planet recommends its macadamia nut lavosh and others swear by the taro doughnuts.  But after dark, Kanemitsu’s leads another life. They close their front doors, and the shop moonlights as a purveyor of freshly baked Moloka‘i hot bread, sold exclusively from the bakery’s back door. From 8 p.m. to midnight, every night except Tuesday, the bread is served straight from the oven, piping hot and smothered in a sweet topping. And business is good – Kanemitsu sells an average of 100 loaves of bread each night, and over 300 on weekends.

Taro doughnuts

The town of Kaunakakai closes at 5 p.m., when most of its eclectic shops close – art galleries, a dive shop, health food store, plate lunch joint (open till 9 PM weekdays, but only till 2 PM weekends), and a few others that meet people’s basic needs. Moloka`i is refreshingly underdeveloped, lacking in 24-­hour mini-marts to rely on when the late night munchies hit. Knowing the alley is the island’s only after dark source for a sugary treat, I made the half hour drive from the west side’s oceanfront condos (where most visitors stay) in complete darkness, sharing the road only with Moloka`i’s wild deer.

Downtown Kaunakakai

I walk down the street and spot a hand painted sign on a cement wall declaring that “Moloka`i Hot Bread” is down another alley on my left. Colored Christmas lights are the only lights at the end of this dark tunnel. I approach.
The open top half of a door offers a peak into a dark and empty cement room, no server or worker in sight. A marker board to my right announces flavor options for the toppings. Cinnamon, strawberry, blueberry, with butter or cream cheese. I knock. And wait. The voice of an aunty breaks the silence.
“Hi! What would you like?”
She’s wearing a warm smile, and I tell her I’ll take cinnamon and strawberry with butter. Soon she’s gone again, before quickly returning with a hot loaf of wheat bread sliced down the middle and oozing sugary goodness. The packaging is as modest as the location, a simple green plastic bag.

I pay my $7 (cash only, of course), and thank her. Before I leave, she generously places another bag in my arms, this one filled with three glazed pastries. Heading back down the alley, I rip off a piece of bread and stuff it in my mouth. The strawberry is jelly­like, and the cinnamon (my favorite of the two) resembles a tastier and homemade Cinnabon.
As I leave, the rush arrives and I pass a young couple, family of four, and three teenage boys. Back on the main street, my car isn’t alone anymore as others pull up, and for the next hour or so, this corner in Kaunakakai will be the busiest spot on Moloka`i.

Hot bread with strawberry and butter

Destinations

72 hours in Ubud

Last year, I spent three months living in Ubud, Bali and loved every minute of it. While I traveled widely in Bali, I spent the majority of my time living and breathing Ubud. Unlike some of the other more touristy destinations on Bali, Ubud is a vibrant  cultural hub. It is a mecca for art, yoga, shopping, fresh, organic food, and, my personal favorite, rice terraces. There is so much to do, see, and experience in Ubud, but our 72-hour guide includes my can’t-miss recommendations.

Morning, Day One

Pura Saraswati

If you are staying in town, grab breakfast at Kafe, where I’d recommend ordering the buckwheat banana pancakes, or, if you want to eat like the locals, order the Bubur Injin, which is a black rice pudding with coconut milk and banana.  
After fueling up, head out and explore the center of town. You will see and experience the culture of Bali everywhere. There are boutiques and shops, amazing restaurants and cafés. Take it all in. Explore. While you are wandering, you must stop at the following three places.
The first is Ubud Market, which is a market where locals shop for fresh fruits and vegetables but also attracts tourists with locally-made goods.  
Next, check out Pura Saraswati, also known as the Lotus temple, as there are large lotus ponds right in front of the temple. The Saraswati temple is breathtaking with elaborate carvings that honor the goddess Saraswati known to be the goddess of wisdom and the arts. There are also regular dance performances by night at the temple.
Finally, don’t miss Ubud Palace, which, similar to the Lotus temple, underscores the intricate craftsmanship of traditional Balinese style.

Afternoon, Day One

Sacred Monkey Forest

Take a break from the intense heat with lunch at Taco Casa. While it might sound strange to eat Mexican food in Bali, this place is a favorite of mine, probably my most-frequented place during my time there. I highly recommend the vegetarian eight-layer burrito bowl, and I’m not even vegetarian. To drink, don’t miss the orange lime mint ginger soda.
After lunch, head to the Sacred Monkey Forest. You can’t go to Ubud without stopping by Monkey Forest. As the name suggests, monkeys are everywhere, and, yes, they will jump or climb on you. Don’t be afraid, but be aware that they will try to grab anything off your body, like hats or sunglasses, and, of course, any food or drink in your hand or even relatively accessible in your bag.

Evening, Day One

Sunset over a ricefield

A perfect evening in Ubud is watching the sun set over the iconic rice fields. Is there anything better than that? Yes, enjoying dinner while watching the sun set over the rice fields. Do this at Sari Organik. Their food is locally sourced at an organic farm across the road. I am a big fan of their fried rice with chicken.
While it is a little difficult to find, as cars aren’t allowed to drive up to it, you can either take a scooter along the narrow path (don’t do this unless you are confident in your scooter-driving skills) or you can find the wooden sign along the main road and then walk along the rice fields and lovely bungalows until you reach the restaurant. If you get lost, just ask around and someone will point you in the right direction. The Balinese people are extremely friendly and helpful.
After dinner, head to Laughing Buddha for drinks, live music, and dancing.

Morning, Day Two

Telegalang rice terraces

Rent a scooter and head over to Clear Café for breakfast. They have unique coffee drinks (such as mint or coconut lattes), and all of the food on their menu is not only organic but incredibly delicious. I also highly recommend trying one of their tonics or elixirs. Also, while you dine, you’ll be staring at one of Bali’s many temples.
After you’ve nourished your body, cruise over to the Tegalalang Rice Terraces. Photos don’t do it justice. Rice terraces are quintessential Bali and are a prominent part of the scenery around the island, especially in Ubud. The Balinese have developed an impressive and complex system of terraced rice fields as the steep terrain precludes the use of the traditional wet farming style to grow rice.  

Afternoon, Day Two

Tegenungan Waterfall

Head back to the center of town and visit Dewa Warung for lunch. It’s a small spot in the midst of a busy street of other restaurants and shops. It doesn’t appear particularly attractive from the outside, but locals love it. Try the avocado salad and the soto ayam.
After lunch, put on your swimsuit, jump on your scooter, and go to the Tegenungan Waterfall. This place is not just for tourists. You will see an abundance of locals here as well, especially on the weekends. You will have to descend (and then later ascend) a long staircase and then walk along the river to get to the waterfall, so some physical dexterity is required for this excursion. But it’s worth it for the photo opp, and of course cooling off with a swim under the falls.  

 Evening, Day Two

CP Lounge

Dinner at Naughty Nuri’s is a must and, it should be noted, is Anthony Bourdain approved and recommended. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, so plan on waiting for a table.  
If it’s a Friday night, head to the Yoga Barn for Ecstatic Dance. This is a dance party with a DJ, but no one is allowed to speak to each other. You are encouraged to feel the music and let your body move. It may take you out of your comfort zone, but it’s a great way to meet other travelers and have an experience unlike anything you’ve done before.
If that’s too far outside of your comfort zone, an alternative is to have drinks and listen to live music at CP Lounge. Their strawberry sensation cocktail is amazing.

 Morning, Day Three

Morning yoga

Another day, another rice field. Trust me, you won’t be sick of dining with a view. At The Elephant, you’ll find both an incredible view and healthy, delicious, sustainable food.
Then, head back to the Yoga Barn for a morning yoga session. Yoga is one of the primary draws to visiting Ubud, even if you don’t practice regularly (I don’t), so it’s worth checking out, if only for the experience.
Afterwards, go next door and have a massage. Bali is a premier destination for massages as they are very economical, costing on average between $7 and $10 for an hour.

 Afternoon, Day Three

Tirta Empul

Have lunch at a quaint, local place called Bubu Warung. Most everything on the menu is delicious, but, in particular, I highly recommend the chicken curry. Also, the staff is wonderful.
Then, jump back on your scooter and head a little out of town to Tirta Empul, which is a traditional Balinese water temple. Locals go here for purification which is done by standing under a series of water spouts in one of two large pools. Also, be sure to walk around the grounds and see the temples.  

 Evening, Day Three

The Onion Collective

For your last evening in Ubud, I would highly recommend rendang, a local marinated meat dish (but vegetarian options are available too) at Waroeng Bernadette. It is located on a street with lots of shopping and other restaurants, which can serve as a relaxing pre-dinner activity.
After dinner, stop by The Onion Collective, which is a unique space that includes living accommodations, a co-working space, a pool, and regular evening entertainment. They host a flea market with locally-made goods and often an artist who does pencil sketches, open mic nights, and live bands (the owner, Mark, often plays with his band). The staff is incredibly personable, and the food is great as well. 

Destinations

Mauna Kea: snow, fun, and sun

The Mountain

Telescopes on Mauna Kea

The thought of living among five volcanoes on an island in the Pacific may not instill a sense of peace in many people. But for locals on the Big Island of Hawaii, one of those volcanoes holds a range of respected qualities, and that’s Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain from base to summit. It holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for Native Hawaiians.  Eleven countries operate 13 telescopes on the mountain including the Keck Observatory. And high above the beaches and valleys, it can transform into a winter wonderland. When heavy rains bring a thick blanket of snow to Mauna Kea, its summit becomes a gathering place above the clouds.
The Mountain (as locals call it) looms as a stark backdrop to the laid-back east side town of Hilo. Mauna Kea reaches nearly 14,000 feet above sea level, but stakes its claim as twice as tall as Mount Everest thanks to being 32,000 feet tall from the ocean’s floor. Though Mauna Kea is considered dormant, geologists expect its neighboring shield volcano Mauna Loa to erupt again one day. Not far away Kilauea has been erupting for three decades, and inches closer to the historical town of Pahoa each day.

Snow

Snow on Mauna Kea

When locals wake to thick snow on the Mountain, eighty-degree days liven with the promise of an adventure that contrasts the usual surf missions and camping trips. Anticipation builds as people wait for word that the road to the summit has been opened. Their four-wheel-drive trucks will ascend with body boards, snowboards, and trashcan tops to serve as sleds, and descend with loads of snow for building snowmen at home. The lucky pull out winter coats and gloves, while many throw together island style snow gear where warmth increases with each layer (think lots of socks and long sleeved t-shirts).
Though the summit is reached by a rather smooth 4X4 drive, staying there for long takes some endurance. Altitude sickness can hit, resulting in nausea and dizziness. It’s advised that children under the age of 16 don’t go to the top, but they can spend time at the visitor’s center at 9,000 feet, where everyone should spend a half hour acclimating before climbing higher. Here, telescopes are available for use and nightly stargazing is offered from 6 to 10 p.m. whatever the weather.
One of the best ways to enjoy the heights and stars is with the help of Mauna Kea Summit Adventures who offer eight-hour tours that include sunset views, dinner, and stargazing.

Sacred sites

Lake Waiau

Mauna Kea isn’t just for winter shenanigans and sightseeing. It’s home to sacred places, archaeological sites, and, recently, controversy. After years of planning, construction of the $1.4 billion Thirty Meter Telescope begun in late 2014. The telescope that will have roughly 10 times the resolution of Hubble was not born without a fight, a fight where tradition and science couldn’t find  common ground.
Hawaiians and cultural preservationists say that the construction of the telescope would dissolve and disgrace the sacred places and spiritual significance of Mauna Kea. For Hawaiians, Mauna Kea embodies the union of Wakea, the Sky Father, and Papahanaumoku, the mother goddess who gave birth to the Islands.
One of those sacred sites is Lake Waiau at 13,000 feet amidst an arid, rocky, oxygen-poor landscape. The only glacially formed lake in the mid-Pacific, was and still is used for healing and cultural practices. Traditionally families would deposit the umbilical cord of newborns into the lake, as well as spread the ashes of the deceased there.

Past and future

Mauna Kea under the Milky Way

At 12,000 feet elevation on Mauna Kea’s southwest slope is a quarry that contributed to the evolution of Hawaiian culture. Pre-contact Hawaiians made the trek on foot to access the high quality basalt adze quarry. Large boulders were broken down into portable adze “blanks,” which were then carried back down to shoreline homes for manufacturing.  
But that was then, and this is now where Mauna Kea will help science move forward and connect Native Hawaiians with tradition. It offers snowboard contests, the best sunrises and sunsets, Zen moments at the top of the world, and a view that reaches Maui.
As stated so eloquently in the Mauna Kea Comprehensive Management Plan: “…Mauna Kea is sacred. Mauna Kea is where heaven, earth and stars find union. Not just any heaven, but Wakea, not just any earth, but Papahanaumoku, and not just any constellation of twinkling lights, but Ho‘ohokukalani, whose children descend and return to the stars.”