Chattanooga: Past and present in harmony

Few places fuse the old and the new better than Chattanooga, Tennessee, a Southern city steeped in historic lore as it carves its own path forward. Between its pivotal role in the Civil War and its longstanding ties to the railroad industry and whiskey distillation, this is a place rich with American antiquity. Meanwhile, modern developments, ecological practices and destination-worthy restaurants are helping freshen up the city’s identity for new generations. The result is one of the most unique cities in the U.S., whose harmonious past and present make for a bucket list destination like no other.

A food scene on the rise

Unhindered by extravagant costs and frenzied competition inherent in larger cities, Chattanooga provides more flexibility and creative control for chefs, restaurateurs, brewers and mixologists, and they’ve got a hungry audience eager to enjoy the fruits of their labor. It also helps that chefs here are utterly surrounded by the bounty of Tennessee farms. Some, like Crabtree Farms, are even within city limits. This, coupled with the region’s lengthy growing season, means restaurants are always cooking up something fresh.

Crabtree Farms

A fitting example is St. John’s, one of the city’s most lauded and enduring highlights. Although open for several years, the pristine spot stays fresh and relevant thanks to chef Rebecca Barron’s innovative style. She uses locally sourced, seasonal ingredients as the foundation for a menu featuring novel takes on classic dishes. Take the pork rinds and pastrami with watermelon hot sauce, for instance. Or try a “tasting of bluefin tuna” consisting of seared loin, sashimi and tartare with fried benne seed toast, heirloom tomatoes and squid ink yogurt. The accompanying wine list is just as thoughtful, and cocktails echo the seasonal sentiments of the food menu with the likes of Sunset on Broad, a rosy strawberry-infused tipple with gin, amaro, mint and pink peppercorn.

Another chef bolstering Chattanooga’s food scene and putting the region on the national map is Erik Niel, the force behind Easy Bistro & Bar. One of the city’s most iconic restaurants, the downtown charmer toes the line between elegant and full-fledged decadence, turning out light, clean preparations of vegetables and meats while also reinventing hearty Southern staples like cornbread and grits. While a few dishes remain fixtures, Niel is always updating much of the menu, showcasing the versatility of the Southern bounty as he pivots through the seasons. For summer, this means fried squash blossoms get sweetened with blackberries and smokey honey, while peaches and white asparagus enliven a plate of sockeye salmon.

Niel and his wife Amanda are also behind Main Street Meats, a feverishly popular meat Mecca that doubles as a market. More casual than Easy Bistro & Bar, Niel gets playful with sandwiches and plates that prove why the American Southeast is among the best regions in the world for farmland meats. Pork rinds dashed with harissa aïoli, prosciutto-topped corn chowder and smoky chicken sandwiches are a few prime examples, along with simply prepared steaks, habit-forming burgers and bacon-studded potato salad.

Even Chattanooga’s most casual offerings manage to surprise and delight. Like The Flying Squirrel, a convivial bar and restaurant in a lofty, modern space with a serious penchant for local sourcing. Updated comfort food is the bill of fare, gussied up with products like local cheddar for pimento cheese, farm-fresh chicken for tacos and heirloom tomatoes from Crabtree Farms for a vegetal risotto. The drink menu is just as noteworthy, with both classic and contemporary cocktails and one of the strongest beer lists in the city. A huge draft list features everything from blackberry sour beers and coffee ciders to grapefruit shandies and German pilsners.

A hotbed for hotels

As evidenced by the city’s surging restaurant landscape, the hospitality scene is stronger than ever in Chattanooga. It’s a sentiment echoed by the local hotels as well, which include some of the most unique and colorful abodes in the country.

One of the most offbeat dwellings is the train hotel at the city’s historic Chattanooga Choo Choo. A fun, engaging way for visitors to experience the city’s longstanding role in railroad lore, the timeworn station provides rooms in its Pullman Train Car. While amenities are up to par with modern hotels, the motif harkens to yesteryear; a time when passengers traveling to and through Chattanooga would hole up in their sleeper cars in transit. While you’re here, swing by the Silver Diner for pizza and STIR for a cocktail or two. Songbirds Museum is an incredible music museum on the train station’s second floor, featuring the largest private collection of guitars in the world.

Inspired by Chattanooga’s reputation as a hiking and climbing paradise, The Crash Pad is a hip hostel that originated from a need for affordable dwelling for traveling climbers who needed a place to crash. While any kind of traveler can stay there for cheap, holed up in one of the Crash Pad’s numerous bunk beds or private rooms, the space has the look and feel of a mountainous base camp. It helps that it’s also fully loaded with a range of amenities and homey add-ons, like a full kitchen and an outdoor area with fire pit and gas grill. Located in the burgeoning Southside district, it’s a quick walk from local haunts like the Flying Squirrel right next door, Main Street Meats and Niedlov’s Breadworks.

It doesn’t get any cooler than the impossibly hip Dwell Hotel. A polished and colorful take on mid-century modern, the artsy boutique does retro right. The whole property looks like it was designed for the Instagram era, with pink-splashed walls, chic couches, vibrant flowers and gallery-worthy artwork, not to mention contemporary culinary art coming out of Terra Mae and the cocktails at Matilda Midnight, a cozy watering hole with a dark, celestial facade that looks like something you’d find in a planetarium. Each of the hotel’s 16 rooms are individually designed and inspired by various time periods and styles. The Tiki is an executive suite, a fireplace-equipped nook decked out with plants, art, colors and barstools that look like they’d be right at home in a tiki bar. Another glorious example is The Flamingo, a king suite bedecked with flamingo wallpaper, tropical art and funky, beachy furnishings.

Chattanooga’s hotel market has a bright future ahead of it, too. Marriott’s funky Moxy brand is set to expand into the city’s Southside in 2018, featuring a slate of hip amenities geared towards the millennial traveler, and 102 boutique rooms across four floors. Then there’s The Edwin Hotel, currently taking shape alongside the Tennessee River at the end of the famous Walnut Street Bridge — which makes sense, considering the bridge’s developer was Edwin Thacher. The artsy five-floor property has 90 rooms, a ground floor restaurant and rooftop bar, which should boast some of the most awe-inspiring views once the hotel cuts the tape next year.

One with nature

Climbers staying at The Crash Pad aren’t the only adventure-seekers coming through Chattanooga these days. Thanks to the city’s smaller size and its close proximity to nature, the region is real haven for outdoors enthusiasts.

Imodium Falls

The Tennessee River waterfront is at the heart of downtown Chattanooga’s identity. Along with a 13-mile river park trail that gets walkers, joggers and cyclists up close and personal with the water, travelers can hop aboard the Southern Belle for a real blast from the past. The massive boat looks like a quaint vessel from the 1800s, providing a charming perspective of the city as it plies the river. One of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, more than 100,000 passengers board the Southern Belle annually, partaking in lunch cruises, dinner cruises or private charters.

The Southern Belle

Another cool way to hit the water is via the Tennessee Aquarium’s River Gorge Explorer. After you’re done drinking in the myriad sights at the riverfront aquarium, climb aboard the high-speed boat for a trip downstream through the glorious river gorge, where aquarium guides will help spot animals in their natural habitats. Each trip lasts about two hours, and boarding and debarkation take place at the riverboat pier two blocks from the aquarium.

For hikers, Chattanooga is filled with opportunity. Starr Mountain, Little Cedar Mountain, Rainbow Lake and Virgin Falls State Natural Area are just a few rife examples a stone’s throw from the city center. But the crown jewel is Lookout Mountain, a miles-long wonderland that expands three states and a miscellany of landscapes, from deep caverns below the Earth and staggering waterfalls to endless trailheads and rocky cliffs. A good starting off point, and one of the most popular segments of Lookout Mountain, is the historic Bluff Trail. Between five and nine miles, depending on which routes you’re looking to take, the looped trail provides consistently eye-popping views, whether it’s of steep cliffs, Lookout Valley, sinkholes or climbers traversing Sunset Rock. From this vantage point, a trail carved into the mountainside in the 1930’s, you’ll look upon land where Confederate generals once watched Union troops in the valley, another apt reminder of Chattanooga’s rich cultural significance.
From legendary train stations to world-class dining, urban farms and illustrious hikes through history, Chattanooga is an essential destination for travelers from all walks of life.

Lookout Mountain

48 hours in Mexico City

With a population of 8.9 million (21.2 million if you include the greater metro area), Mexico City is not only our-neighbor-to-the-south’s densest metropolis, but it’s also one of the biggest financial centers on the continent and the largest Spanish-speaking city in the world. Mexico City International Airport is the country’s main transportation hub, and you’re not flying direct to your central American destination, chances are you’ll be flying through the capital. If you can, we recommend extending your layover for a dizzying 48 hours in Mexico City to take in all the sights, sounds and tacos you can handle.

Mexico City offers much to see, but if you’re short on time, don’t drive yourself crazy trying to get from one area to the next; target a few prime spots and call it a day (or two). Bring your zen game when visiting, because the traffic can be infuriating.

Day one

After arriving, drop your bags at TripExpert’s top hotel, The Red Tree House, a 1930s bed and breakfast situated in the classic Condesa neighborhood, before heading to Centro Historico, a good starting point to soak in the city’s history. Visit Zócalo, the main square (formally Plaza de la Constitución), which was a ceremonial center in the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. Glimpse the grand colonial buildings, including the Palacio Nacional, the presidential building that houses Diego Rivera’s mural, “Epic of the Mexican People in their Struggle for Freedom and Independence”; the Catedral Metropolitana, an architectural masterpiece that took three centuries to reach completion; and the gorgeous Palacio de Bellas Artes, which hosts world-renowned opera, dance and theater against a backdrop of Mexican murals.

And, if you think you have to leave Mexico City to see ancient ruins, think again. Right in the heart of downtown sits the top-rated attraction in the Centro Historico, the Museo del Templo Mayor. The museum is built around an archaeological site unearthed in 1978 and showcases the remains and artifacts of what once was a towering Aztec temple.

Museo del Templo Mayor

From there, head to the Zona Rosa neighborhood and Paseo de la Reforma, a stroll-worthy main avenue where you can check out the Ángel de la Independencia and Fuente de La Diana Cazadora. Stop by El Califa for tacos and then Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City for a creative concoction by mixologist Mica Rousseau at Fifty Mils lounge, which overlooks the hotel’s lushly landscaped inner courtyard.

Take Reforma straight to Bosque de Chapultepec, the largest urban park in the western hemisphere. Here you can visit Castillo de Chapultepec, the only royal castle in America that’s home to the National History Museum, and nearby Museo de Antropología, one of the most important museums in Mexico and Latin America.

If you’re a shopper, swank Polanco, just to the north of Chapultepec, is the spot for you. The main thoroughfare, Presidente Masaryk Avenue, is an upscale boutique mecca, along with Emilio Castelar street, which serves as a dining and nightlife hub too. For dinner, try lively Villa María on Avenida Homero, which features traditional Mexican fare and must-try oversized margaritas, or much-lauded Pujol for chef Enrique Olivera’s deconstructed take on classic Mexican dishes.

Bosque de Chapultepec with the Castillo de Chapultepec

Day two

Hop a taxi south to Coyocán, which is our favorite area by far. A remnant of the colonial era with charming cobblestone streets and chiming churches, it was also the preferred neighborhood of revered artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Visit Museo Frida Kahlo, a.k.a. Casa Azul, the famous blue house in which she was born and later died, to get a glimpse of Kahlo’s notorious unibrow depicted in the expansive collection of paintings and photographs.

Museo Frida Kahlo

Afterward, head toward bustling Jardín Centenario, lined with alfresco cafes and restaurants, where you can while away an hour or two people-watching with mezcal in hand. Speaking of mezcal, Corazón de Maguey offers a full page of main courses meant to be paired with the native spirit. Try the Jamaica tacos (pronounced ha-mike-a, not like the Caribbean country), which are fried tortillas filled with hibiscus, or if you’re a bit adventurous, opt for the dried grasshoppers.

Across the square, you’ll find Los Danzantes, which serves up classic Mexican cuisine with a twist. Start with the house specialty, hoja santa, which has gooey Oaxaca and pungent goat cheeses slipped between paper-thin Mexican pepper leaves. Those with a sweet tooth can then join the line at El Jarocho café for churros and hot chocolate.

Hoja santa rellena

End the day where you started, in Condesa, which is fast becoming the SoHo of Mexico City. Take in the streets lined with Art Deco buildings and Porfirian-style houses, and pop into the numerous galleries, such as prestigious Galeria OMR, founded by Patricia Ortiz Monasterio and her husband, Jaime Riestra.

Simple, yet, sophisticated, Chef Jair Telléz’s Merotoro is a prime choice for an enjoyable last dinner. Specializing in cuisine from Ensenada, the menu rotates regularly but you’ll always have your pick of national wines to pair with. To cap off the evening, enjoy a drink at posh Condesa DF’s rooftop or try La Clandestina, a candle-lit space that’s dedicated to all things mezcal.

Condesa DF rooftop

Weekend getaway to Cambridge, UK

Before I first arrived in Cambridge, I had visions of Hogwarts-like grandeur, medieval pubs, secret gardens and endless tea and Pimm’s by the river. And that’s exactly what I found. Just 45 minutes from London by train, this charming, ancient university town is the perfect weekend getaway or easy day-trip. While the area was settled in antiquity, the Cambridge you’ll see today has its roots as a university town, which grew up around Cambridge University, founded in 1209. Notable alums include Charles Darwin, Stephen Hawking and Ian McKellen alongside a staggering  96 Nobel laureates. It’s impossible not to be impressed by the history of the place, and you’ll find the city charming in every season.

So, what to do with a weekend in Cambridge?

Saturday

Start your visit right with a quick breakfast sandwich or homemade pastry and mug of fresh coffee at Hot Numbers on Trumpington St. – a cozy student favorite.

Head up the road and you’ll hit the cobbled King’s Parade, which winds past some of the university’s oldest and most visually striking colleges. Check out Corpus Christi on the right and then King’s, Trinity and St. John’s on the left. While the University has 31 colleges, if you only have time to visit one, better make it King’s. Founded in 1441, the campus’ dramatic Gothic architecture is definitely worth a stop (and the £9.00 admissions charge). Your ticket will include entrance to King’s College Chapel, a truly stunning building that took over a century to complete and features the largest fan vault ceiling in the world.

The fan vault ceiling of King’s College Chapel

On your way out, head left down King’s Parade and through St. Mary’s Passage to the Market Square, where you’ll find a food, goods and crafts market in operation in that very spot since medieval times. There’re lots of independent galleries and boutiques in the cobbled streets around the market, so I’d recommend exploring the area.

Grab some lighter fare in the market itself (there’re usually stands serving up falafel, paella, dumplings and Thai noodles), or stop for a sit-down lunch at one of the nearby restaurants. SmokeWorks serves up delicious barbeque, even by American standards. Indigo Coffee House is a hidden gem tucked away in St. Edward’s Passage, with great sandwiches, cakes and coffee.

Market Square

Punting along the River Cam is a charming Cambridge tradition and a great way to see some of the city’s highlights like the picturesque Bridge of Sighs and unique Mathematical Bridge. Companies like Cambridge Chauffeur Punts and Scudamore’s offer punt tours or, if you’ve got the urge for independence (and some traction on your shoes!), self-hire. Feel free to grab snacks and a drink – maybe even a cheeky pitcher of Pimm’s from a riverside pub – for the ride. If you’d rather walk along the banks instead, follow signs to the Backs, a path that winds along the river and takes you past lovely views (and the occasional herd of cows). Not punting or strolling weather? Head to The Mill pub and play games by the fire.  

Punting on the Cam

Cambridge Brew House is a great option for dinner, especially for anyone looking to test out the local beer scene. Try home-brewed beers and interesting takes on English classics, including their range of “British tapas.” If you’re feeling a little “pubbed out,” head to Thai Khun instead, a go-to for tasty Thai street-food in a space reminiscent of a Bangkok street market, minus the traffic.
The Eagle Pub is a must-see, especially for history buffs, and a nice spot to cap off the night. It attracts a lot of tourists, but for good reason: opened in 1667, this cozy warren of rooms offers you the chance to sip a pint in the booth where Watson and Crick announced they had discovered the structure of DNA. Also make sure to check out the WWII-era graffiti all over the walls and ceilings of the “RAF room.”

The Eagle Pub

Sunday

Make your way to Clarendon Arms, a rustic pub where on Sundays they serve up one thing and one thing only – and boy, do they do it well. Their Sunday roast – a veritable tower of meat, vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and gravy – is on my personal list of all-time favorite meals and the perfect cure if you’ve had one too many pints the previous night. A vegetarian “roast” is also available. Across Parker’s Piece (hallowed ground to any sports fan: it’s where the precursor to modern soccer/football was first played) from the center of town, the walk gives you a chance to work up the appetite you’ll need. Make sure you reserve in advance!
Head back to town and check out the Fitzwilliam Museum – an impressive collection of the university’s arts and antiquities collections. Cambridge University also has a number of small, quirky museums hidden around campus, all free to the public: my personal favorites are the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology and the Polar Museum.

The Fitzwilliam Museum

A few blocks down Trumpington St. from the Fitzwilliam you’ll find Fitzbillies. Nip in for a cup of tea and a Chelsea bun – decadent but well worth it.  

Just up the road are the Cambridge University Botanic Gardens, home to more than 8,000 species of plant. Let yourself be transported to the tropics with a stop in the Palm House.

Head to dinner at The Old Bicycle Shop on Regent St., where they serve up locally sourced fare and creative cocktails in a rustic space that can only be summed up as “cycling chic.”

Cambridge University Botanic Gardens

Where to stay

Hotel du Vin Cambridge: Historic university buildings converted into an elegant but homey boutique hotel.

St. John’s College: Bed and breakfast accommodations in an impressive 16th century building in one of the university’s oldest colleges. Only available outside of term.

Arundel House Hotel: A tastefully converted row of Victorian houses overlooking the river Cam, just minutes from the center.

The Varsity Hotel & Spa: Centrally located, modern hotel with elements of classic Cambridge charm.

Hotel du Vin

Announcing TripExpert-powered hotel reviews on Hipmunk

Hipmunk is one of our favorite travel planning tools. We’re pleased to announce that it’s now even better: on its award winning web and mobile apps, you’ll find TripExpert-powered reviews for tens of thousands of hotels.
Hipmunk is the latest company using our Expert Review API, which provides data for reviews from 70+ travel guides, magazines and newspapers.

Clicking the TripExpert logo on Hipmunk hotel results will take you to full coverage.

“TripExpert gives us the fun facts and insider tips that let our users know what it will truly be like to stay at each hotel,” said Steve Vargas, Hipmunk’s Director of Product. “Since they’re written by industry experts, the reviews not only give really interesting details, but they also have a more objective quality than user reviews. This makes them super easy to digest and to trust. ”
To learn more about the partnership, see our press release or read coverage on the Hipmunk blog.

Business class: The game changer

Face it. A long distance flight is often an ugly and inelegant place to begin a trip. It’s a well-organized nightmare. Who longs for a 10-hour flight across the ocean sitting nose-pore range from a seatmate?
Now consider the weird warm excitement of flying Business Class. Yeah, it’s a game changer.

The comfort

British Airways introduced flat beds in First Class in 1995 and airborne sleeping became a competitive sport. Now almost all major carriers offer fully flat beds in Business Class on many international and some cross-country flights.

Business seats once resembled dentist chairs. Now they’re sleek wingback capsules that transform into pods (assembly required). They morph into flat beds and a private slice of time all wired with a nerd’s panoply of electronics. There’s always another convenience or luxury to top the last flight. One interior designer boasted “you never want the passenger to discover all the seat has to offer in the first 10 minutes.”

Flat-bed seats on Singapore Airlines

Business seats usually have a pitch (front of one seat to the front of the next seat forward) of about 52 inches. The pitch in economy seating is around 31 inches. The grown-up seats also are wider and recline deeper.

Menu choices and libations are richer in Business Class. Even the entertainment options are on a higher plane. Allowable check-in baggage is jacked up to 88 pounds and tagged Priority.
Many of the seat and electronics innovations are a result of new Airbus and Boeing extended-range aircraft, especially the A-380, 787 Dreamliner, and 777. There’s also a new generation of interior cabin magicians like JPA Design changing the way we fly. Consider American Airlines new First and Business Class cabins on its Boeing 777-300ER international fleet, where every fully lie-flat seat has direct aisle access.

American Airlines Flagship First cabin in the Boeing 777-3000ER

The money

Business Class tickets sell at four to five times the price of economy seats. That’s major revenue for competitive airlines where costs are sky high and fluctuate beyond a CEO’s control. What about all those cheap seats back in the lower intestine of the aircraft? You can’t sell dollars for 50 cents and make it up on volume. Airlines need expensive real estate at the front of the plane to balance the bottom line.
This is what one blogger wrote:  “My basic belief is that Business Class is where they treat passengers like dignified human beings and Economy Class is where… well, where they don’t.”
Yet passengers are the same. After a landing we’ve all made the perp walk from economy to the front exit through an already deplaned business class. As Chekhov wrote: All I know about ballet is that ballerinas stink like horses between dances.
You can noodle over the cost difference between Business and Economy and what you get. A lot of high-stakes frequent flyers, the ones who know the airline’s month’s menu choices by heart, spend their bonus awards on upgrades rather than Economy award tickets, perhaps getting more value per award.

The best

Most top-tier Business Class carriers hail from Asia, and, over the last few years, include Gulf-based carriers Emirates, Etihad Airways, and Qatar Airways. Even Turkish Airlines gets high praise.  

United Airlines Polaris cabin

U.S. carriers also receive accolades. United Airlines’ “sleep-focused” Polaris Business Class debuted in December. Delta has a herringbone configuration allowing flat-seat conversion and aisle access. Air Canada Business Class, a frequent award recipient among North American airlines, offers fully flat “executive Pods” on their Boeing 777-200LR’s and Dreamliners.

SWISS Business Class is a perennial award winner among European airlines. In the hospitality industry, Swiss hoteliers are the gold standard. The same holds true in the sky. SWISS integrated-massage seat converts into a roomy 6-foot-6-inch flat bed at the touch of a button.

SWISS Business

But to many long distance fliers nothing beats business class aboard Singapore Airlines — the perfect trifecta of modernity, service (even charm), and efficiency. Flight attendants wear batik sarong kebayas instead of uniforms that look like children’s naval wear. They’re professional, fun, alert, and indefatigable. You can reserve your main dining course from a celebrity-chef menu up to 24 hours before boarding.

Singapore Airlines New Business class

As for passenger surveys, the deepest comes from Skytrax World Airline Awards, an independent survey analyzing 20 million responses. 
And here are the rankings for the best premium class (whatever the name) by airline:

1 Etihad Airways
2 Cathay Pacific
3 Air France
4 ANA All Nippon Airways
5 Singapore Airlines
6 Emirates
7 Lufthansa
8 Qatar Airways
9 Qantas Airways
10 Garuda Indonesia

Stay classy in Singapore without breaking the bank

There’s no denying that Singapore is a glorious place to visit, but all that glamour comes with a stiff price tag. For a vacationer on a set budget, it’s easy to come unstuck in one of the world’s most expensive countries. It doesn’t all have to be so pricey, though; all it takes to keep costs down is some planning and foresight. Just because you don’t have jet-set funds doesn’t mean you can’t have a blast within your means on this 277-square-mile tropical playground.

Staying

While its neighbours Malaysia and Indonesia offer good accommodation at a reasonable price, Singapore isn’t so generous. Four-star rooms in Malaysia can be half the price of their Singaporean counterparts — so why not stay in one? It’s surprisingly easy to travel to Singapore from Johor Bahru (JB), Malaysia’s biggest southern city — in fact, tens of thousands of Malaysian workers do so every day by train, crossing the half-mile causeway bridge between downtown JB and Singapore. Several services operate in both directions daily and cost less than $4 a trip. The journey takes five minutes and you can clear both countries’ immigration counters at Woodlands station, on the Singaporean side. If you miss the last train back (11pm), a taxi to JB will still cost far less than the savings you’ve made on accommodation.

Johor Bahru, Malaysia

Eating

Singapore’s 29 Michelin-starred restaurants suggest that this is a nation with a taste for fine cuisine. And judging by the packed crab and lobster restaurants around Clarke Quay every night, which can charge upwards of $100 for a crustacean, there are plenty of people in Singapore who can afford to eat extravagantly. But it doesn’t have to be so.

Singapore is quite rightly celebrated for its astonishing blend of local, Malay, Chinese and Indian cuisines, which are available on huge plates for a couple of bucks at a vast number of “hawker centres” across the island. This is where real Singaporeans eat, and many say that the food they sell—often prepared by third-generation stallholders—is just as good as you will find in a swanky restaurant. Top tip: Singaporeans are willing to wait in line for a long time to get the best food, so follow their lead and always pick the longest line.

Clarke Quay

Drinking

Many travellers like a tipple, but it’s hard to enjoy sipping on a drink when you’re fretting over the colossal size of your impending bill: in Singapore it is bound to be a big one. The island’s most famous cocktail, the Singapore sling, at the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, where it was invented, will set you back around $23. A survey last year found Singapore, where a pint of Heineken will usually cost around $15, to be behind only Hong Kong in terms of beer prices in Asia.

As long as you plan ahead, though, it is possible to get your buzz on more cheaply. Irrespective of what time it is, there will always be a happy hour going on somewhere in Singapore, and some of these offer fantastic deals. Check out Brewerkz at Riverside Point between noon and 3pm for some strong afternoon craft brews, made on the premises, for just $4 (later on, the price almost trebles). At night, Chupitos on Clarke Quay is well known for its sub-$1 shots with flavours changing every week. For those who like a drink, the local listings magazines are a good source for planning a happy-hour bar-crawl.

Brewerkz

Doing

For those who like to explore, Singapore has two substantial things going for it. First, though the island sprawls, the bits you actually want to see are quite compact and easily strollable. Secondly, many of the best sites are either free to enter or charge a token price. It is less than 3 miles from Little India to China Town, yet between these two points lie many of Singapore’s historical, cultural and architectural gems — the eating and shopping aren’t shabby either. At the end of your jaunt you can take in the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, which is free and fantastic. Try to avoid taxis, which run such a byzantine system of fares that it is rare to find two cars charging the same rate. Instead, the MRT subway is cheap and extremely efficient and will probably get you to within a couple of hundred yards of your destination.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Timing

Don’t stay too long! Singapore doesn’t really merit more than a three-day visit for even the most laid-back traveller, so you could easily find yourself with too much time on your hands. Instead, you can add a couple of new stamps to your passport by taking an hour-long ferry ($6.50) to the Indonesian island of Batam, south of Singapore, or catch a train north to Malaysia. Though it will take much longer than a flight, you could even get a sleeper all the way up to Bangkok (48 hours, $60), which provides an incredible way to see the region and allows you to get off at various points on your trip.

Batam

Edinburgh Festival Fringe at 70: What to know and where to stay

Every year for for the past 70, the Festival Fringe has filled Edinburgh’s streets with innovative performances of all kinds. The Fringe, as the Scots call it, is unique because it’s open to anyone with a story to tell and a venue willing to host. This format means you’ll see performers from across the talent spectrum, but that’s part of what makes the whole thing spectacular in the truest sense.

The Fringe always spans 25 days.  This year, it’s from August 4th to August 28th that performers who have put their blood, sweat, and tears into their art will take over the Scottish capital. Streets in the vicinity of the historic Royal Mile will close to traffic and bars, bookstores and storefronts will transform into stages. So also will telephone booths, the backs of cabs — at the Fringe, each nook and cranny offers a stage to every conceivable manifestation of the performing arts. Larger venues, like King’s Theatre and Edinburgh International Conference Center, will host an array of scheduled events ranging from musical theatre, stand-up comedy, and children’s shows, to exhibitions, cabaret, and spoken word.  Underbelly, one of the Fringe’s largest venue operations, also manages a number of venues cityward.

Practical info

Fancy playing a role in the Fringe yourself?  The organizers offer a number of helpful guides, including one for putting on a show.  
For those coming to spectate, note that artists continue to book for the Fringe 2017, but many shows are already selling tickets. The full program will be available online June 7th and you can follow the Fringe on social media for updates.

Where to eat

You’ll no doubt work up an appetite at the Fringe.  There’re  food carts of all kinds offering everything from crêpes to kebabs and of course, to slake your thirst, there’re makeshift beer gardens and pop-up bars.  Culinary experiences-cum-performances like that of George Egg, comedian and “anarchist cook,” have delighted in the past and promise to do so again this year. 
We also recommend a handful of Edinburgh’s best restaurants, most convenient to the Fringe:

The Dogs offers hearty British fare at reasonable prices, aiming at a bohemian and sustainable vibe.

Ondine is a top seafood restaurant not at all far from the action and one of Lonely Planet’s top choices.  They pride themselves on sustainable sourcing.

Hendersons is a centrally located vegetarian go-to that’s been serving up meat-free favorites since the 1960s.

The Witchery itself exudes theatricality, perfect for the Festival, with its candlelit, medievalish interior.  The food is the star.  On offer is “traditional/new-wave Scottish cuisine, such as rabbit stuffed with black pudding or Scottish oysters and langoustines”.

Where to stay

The Fringe brings thousands and thousands to the Scottish capital, which means space is at a premium and it’s wise to book in advance.  Here are our recommendations, proximate to the Fringe’s most popular venues and fit for a range of budgets.

The Balmoral Hotel is a sumptuous Victorian five-star hotel, well-located in New Town, a ten minute walk from both the New Town Theatre and the Edinburgh Festival Theatre.

 G&V Royal Mile Hotel Edinburgh, in old town, brought to you by Italian fashion house Missoni, meaning it’s a “cool and contemporary” contrast to the more Gothic surroundings.

The Witchery by the Castle not only made our restaurant list, but comes recommended as a “flamboyant and fabulously gothic bolthole,” adding drama to your Fringe visit.

The Rutland, our top midrange pick in the area, is a stylish boutique hotel with amazing views.

Safestay Edinburgh is our top choice in the budget category.  Lonely Planet calls it a  “bright, modern hostel that feels more like a hotel.”

Summer roadtripping in Iceland

Imagine driving through a wild and spacious landscape that could easily stand in for Middle Earth, a land where roadside waterfalls tumble from towering mountains and spill into the glassy sea. Imagine a land where shaggy sheep and wild horses roam free, where steam rises from the earth, and where a spongy carpet of previously unknown shades of green cover vast and eerie lava fields. Imagine an island of friendly people, where Vikings are still remembered, and where the midnight sun never sets. This is Iceland in the summer, and it’s the perfect place for an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime road trip.

Renting a Car 

The easiest place to rent a car in Iceland is at Keflavik International Airport outside of Reykjavik, Iceland’s largest city. As it is with everything else on the island, renting a car is very expensive, but the freedom of having your own wheels is worth the high price. Expect to pay $500 to $700 per week for a small car. Unless you’re planning to go off-road or need extra space for camping gear, a compact car is the best option. The main roads in Iceland are generally in excellent shape, and since fuel is expensive (the equivalent of about US$7.50 per gallon), a small car with good gas mileage will save you some money. It’s a good idea to reserve a car in advance and to purchase extra insurance. The folks at the airport car rental counters, like most Icelanders, speak perfect English and are very helpful. While there are gas stations all over the island, most of them require a card with a pin number to pay at the pump.

The Reykjanes Peninsula and Reykjavik

Keflavik Airport is only a 40-minute drive from Reykjavik, which is an ideal base to start your Iceland adventure and must-see city in its own right. But before you head into the city, passing through the peninsula’s thrilling, alien lava fields, consider stopping first at the world-famous Blue Lagoon, which is about 20 minutes from the airport. An 8,700-square-meter pool of milky-blue seawater heated to perfection by a nearby geothermal plant, the Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s top attractions and it should not be missed. Here you can soak away your air-travel blues, cover your body in healing silica, and relax with fellow tourists from all over the world. You must make a reservation in advance.
For those interested in Iceland’s folklore about the mysterious Huldufólk (Hidden Folk) — elves and other mysterious beings which are said to live unseen in the lava rocks — a stop at the quaint town of Hafnarfjordur is a must. About 30 minutes from the Blue Lagoon and 20 minutes outside of Reykjavik, the small seaside town trades on its reputation for having one of the largest concentrations of Huldufólk in Iceland. The local tourist center sells maps of Huldufólk sites and even offers tours led by a local expert.
Next it’s on to Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city, which has only about 120,000 residents. But don’t let its relatively small size fool you: Reykjavik is a world-class destination, with plenty of excellent restaurants, shops, and hotels, unique architecture and museums, and a fun, youthful nightlife. Most tourists spend time in the city’s pedestrian-friendly downtown and along the nearby waterfront. Don’t miss having lunch or dinner at the casual Saegreifinn (Sea Baron) by the harbor. Here they serve what might well be the world’s best lobster soup.
For your home away from home, consider the Hotel Borg, an Art Deco gem in central Reykjavik which offers luxurious, elegant and historic accommodations. Or, just a 10-minute drive from the center of town, the high-rise Grand Hotel Reykjavik has a sleek, modern atmosphere, a relaxing spa and excellent views of the small city.

The Golden Circle

Iceland’s most popular and can’t-miss attractions are all easily accessible by car from Reykjavik along a 300 kilometer route called the Golden Circle. If you leave Reykjavik in the morning, it’s possible to do the whole route in one day, with frequent stops for photographs.
The first stop along the route is Thingvellir National Park, a breathtaking, dramatic landscape of imposing natural rock cliffs, rushing waterfalls and long views of a beautiful rift valley. In Iceland’s old Viking days, beginning around 930 AD, Thingvellir was the site of the Allthing, an annual summer gathering where farmers and chieftains would meet to make laws and settle legal cases.
About an hour from Thingvellir look for the misty geothermal wonderland along the side of the road. It’s called Geysir and you can’t miss it — there’ll be a crowd of awe-inspired tourists and steam everywhere. Though the main blowhole known as Geysir is no longer active, a smaller one erupts about every seven minutes, and it’s a thrilling experience to be there when it does.
Another 15 minutes along the Golden Circle you’ll find Gullfoss Falls, a wide, steep and misty two-stage waterfall that simply must be seen to be believed. It’s a short walk down to the edge of the falls, which is the most popular waterfall in a land chock full of falling and tumbling water.

Other road trips from Reykjavik

Though Reykjavik and the Golden Circle are the island’s most popular tourist destinations, there are many other wondrous places in Iceland that can be easily and safely reached by car, including:

  • The Snaefellsnes Peninsula and Snæfellsjökull, a volcano topped with a glacier made famous as the entrance to a hidden world beneath the earth in Jules Verne’s 1864 novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. This region is about a 2.5-hour drive northwest of Reykjavik.
  • Ísafjörður, a small seaside town about a 5.5-hour drive northwest from Reykjavik, is the largest population center in the gorgeous Westfjords region. This region is not on the usual tourist itinerary, but the scenery alone is worth the relatively long drive. You’ll loop around several fjords on your way through the green and sweeping landscape, and there seems to be an outlandishly beautiful waterfall rushing from the roadside cliffs every few miles. Make sure to keep an eye out for lazy seals lounging on rocks out on the calm sea. Quirky and fascinating attractions in this area include the Museum of Witchcraft and Sorcery in Hólmavík, and the Arctic Fox Center in Súðavík, which celebrates, studies and protects Iceland’s only native mammal.
  • For a truly epic adventure, take a week or more and drive the the Ring Road, also known as Route 1. This 1,322 kilometer paved circle leads around the edge of the entire island, passing by most of the many, many wonders that Iceland has to offer.

Experts’ Choice winners for 2017 announced

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We’re pleased to announce the winners of our second annual Experts’ Choice Awards. 7,000 of the world’s best hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions have been honored with the award, which is based on reviews in top travel media.
Last year, we debuted Experts’ Choice as a new type of accolade that reflects the views of expert reviewers. In the past 12 months, we’ve added hundreds of thousands of new reviews from travel guides, magazines and newspapers. We’ve also added coverage for over 100 new destinations on four continents. TripExpert is now a more comprehensive guide to the best places to stay, the best restaurants to dine at, and the top sights to see.
The reaction to our first round of awards was overwhelming. Both our users and our featured venues were relieved that there is now an alternative to user reviews, which our research shows are subject to abuse and often unreliable.

Award criteria

To be eligible, venues must have a TripExpert Score of at least 70. The score is calculated based on reviews in our 70+ source publications; learn more about how it is calculated. In addition, venues must typically be in the top 10% of similar venues in the relevant destination. (Some adjustments are made to these thresholds in certain cases. For example, in some beach destinations, 100% of the resorts are world class and have received the award.)

Information for winners

Over 1,000 venues now proudly display our “Experts’ Choice” badges on their websites or at their places of business. If you’re a winner, we’d love for you to join them. Click “Venue Support” from your TripExpert page for a selection of embeddable badges and to request free certificates to be delivered to you. We’re also happy to work directly with your PR or social media team. Please contact me if you need any help.

The best of Chicago's cheap eats

Talk to any Chicago native, or any lover of this great city, really, and you’ll be treated to tales of mammoth pizzas that are impossible to eat without a fork, ethnic cuisine with a history you can still taste and what is quite possibly the country’s best hot dog. You don’t need to break the bank to get your fill in this destination, however, and you’ll find some of the greatest bites are also some of the most affordable.

Deep dish pizza

Let’s just get the basics out of the way first. No trip to Chicago is complete without at least several helpings of cheesy, thick, gooey, mouthwatering Chicago-style deep dish pizza. The two highly acclaimed pizzerias in the city are Pizzeria Uno and Gino’s. However, Pizzeria Uno claims that they’re the original creator, serving up pies since 1943. There’s typically a wait to be seated in the small dining room, which still has a vintage, old-school Italian restaurant feel, but the experience is well worth it. You can get a personal-size deep dish for a little over $7.

If Pizzeria Uno is an old-school Italian dive, Gino’s East is an eclectic, graffiti-covered hot spot. Just as the ambience is remarkably different, so is the pizza. While Gino’s still offers that hearty, rib-sticking goodness, there are a few key flavor differences, one being the crust, which incorporates cornmeal for a crunchier texture.

Cheezborger, cheezborger, cheezborger!

The Billy Goat Tavern is tucked underneath Magnificent Mile, in a location that may seem slightly sketchy to out-of-towners if headed there after dark. No worries, you’ll find you’re in good company at this institution. They offer the perfect greasy burger-and-fries combo that you desperately need after a long night on the town and a comfortable ambience that makes you feel right at home. You may recognize the tavern from its SNL fame, which was sparked by the Cheezborger skit featuring Billy Murray, John Belushi and Dan Aykroyd, or maybe you recognize the former Billy Goat as the same that cursed the Cubs in 1945. Regardless, if you don’t know this Chicago spot now, you will soon, and your wallet will thank you for it, as cheeseburgers start at just around $3.

The country’s top dog?

Gene & Jude’s has been serving up hot dogs in their little mom-and-pop shop since the 1940s. They’ve been featured as the best of the best in everything from Reader’s Digest to Rachael Ray Every Day, and have made appearances on a variety of TV shows. Dogs are served up simple — with no ketchup, piled high with mustard, onions, relish and a pickled pepper, with a side of fries. They’re obviously best enjoyed with a cold beer.

Getcha popcorn!

Of course, sometimes you’re only in the mood for a small snack to keep you going as you explore the Chicago streets. If that’s the case, look no further than any one of the Garrett Popcorn shops scattered around the city. The striped storefronts aren’t easy to miss, and once you have a bit, you’ll soon spot the matching bags everywhere, as this sweet and salty treat is a tourist favorite. There’s a huge variety of flavors to choose from, whether you want something a little spicy or extremely decadent and covered in chocolate. The best part? If you develop a craving after you’ve left the Windy City, you can have a gallon tin delivered straight to your doorstep.

Where’s the beef?

Chicago was home to a multitude of Italian immigrants back in the day, and they brought along some amazingly delightful dinner options with them. Johnnie’s Beef is all about the Italian beef sandwiches, dipped and then topped with your choice of peppers. The small eatery is a local favorite and has been recognized by a large variety of foodie stars. Hey, if it’s good enough for Anthony Bourdain, it’s good enough for you. The affordable price is just a plus.