According to some legends the iconic eating style of Spain originated in the south of the country where a crusty slice of bread was placed on top of your beer or wine to keep the flies out. The term tapa comes from the verb tapar, which literally means to cover, so this has us convinced! This tradition later included topping the bread with a paper thin slice of jamon or rubbing it with tomato and drenching it in olive oil.
This is a custom that the south of Spain takes more seriously – in fact, it’s pure luck when you’re given a tapa with a drink in Madrid! So, you will typically need to order a portion or two from the menu which is often standing up on bar counters or scrawled on a chalkboard behind the counter. First, let’s go through the lingo you’ll need to know.
Talk the tapas talk
Tapa is a single portion and is a great way to taste your way through the many flavors of the city. For a long Spanish night of tapas as dinner, I suggest having two to three tapas with each glass of wine to make sure you can keep pace with the locals and end your night as the sun comes up!
A ración (ration) is meant for sharing and will usually serve two to three people, though if you’re having them as dinner plan to order one for each person in the group plus one. So a party of three would order four raciónes and this would be a very good start.
A plato is the main plate. If you find something you truly love then go ahead and order the full plate—it’s common to share this size dish among friends and family, too. Depending on the restaurant, some foods like paella are made-to-order only so you would need to order a full portion to try it.
Look for the messy bars
Don’t worry about a floor littered with toothpicks, napkins, and olive pits. It’s a traditional marketing method used by many bars. Depending on the bar, you too can feel free to toss your trash on the floor as you leave so clients know the place is well-loved and often visited, but make sure it’s the bar’s custom as some high-end places frown on this in favor of keeping the chic vibe.
What to eat, where to eat it
Some of the best bars simply won’t have a menu in English—or a menu at all—but don’t let this dissuade you from walking in and trying some of the best delicacies. Those without menus will have the tapas displayed in their cold case on the bar, just point to what you’d like, order your drink and post up at a table like you own the place. There are some things that you really should try while in Madrid and topping that list is a deep-fried and delicious serving of patatas bravas.
Patatas bravas
Oh man. Crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, covered in aioli and bravas sauce (like a creamy yet slightly spicy ketchup) patatas bravas are served with a toothpick and are best with beer. Enjoy a tapa-sized serving at first because they are quite filling, and there’s more on the list to try! A guilty pleasure for patatas bravas is El Tigre bar which fills up with bargain-hunting locals and expats alike. It’s one of the places in Madrid where tapas are given free with each purchase, so enjoy this southern hospitality, but save room for more bars.
Tortilla de patata
Bar Cerveriz holds the current title for best tortilla de patata in Madrid. This is a small family-run bar across the main entry of the Mercado de San Miguel. This humble interior boasts several awards hung on the wall though nothing else about the decor would tip you off that you’re in the presence of incredible food. Order a slice of tortilla, which is like a potato frittata only much more delicious, and try a glass of Asturian cider to wash it down. Notice how they pour the cider from over a meter high to aerate it and add a nice frothy head. Now this is Madrid.
Champiñones a la plancha
Few things are as delicious as freshly grilled button mushrooms marinated in garlic olive oil. Calle Cava de San Miguel number 17 holds the ticket to some of the best fungi in the city at Mesón del Champiñón. Tuck into this tiny space and snag a barstool if one’s available. On this street, you will find several little taverns that specialize in one thing, and take it to the limit. Next door the Mesón del Boquerón serves vinegar and garlic anchovies day and night to their adoring public.
Pimientos de Padrón
Small, wrinkly, and oftentimes charred to a nearly black perfection, pimientos de Padrón have worked their way onto most tapas menus and into the heart of the Spanish. In fact, they’ve even earned themselves a little rhyme, “pimientos de Padrón, unos pican, otros non.” Padrón peppers, some burn, some don’t. So take care when you’re tucking into these semi-sweet chilis as one in ten will be spicy. These are frequent on the menu at La Casa del Abuelo and with good reason — they really jumpstart your appetite.
Calamares
Though hours from the ocean Madrid is home to some of the best calamari in Madrid. Of course, you need to know where to find it. In the Plaza Mayor, there’s a small little exit which looks like nothing more than an archway; this is actually Calle Botoneras and it is home to La Ideal, the ideal place to grab a calamari sandwich for a quick, delicious, and very filling lunch. For tapas, simply order a ration of calamari and – if your luck holds out – enjoy the scene from a table. It can be a bit tricky to get a spot inside and the incredibly low prices draw locals by the hundreds per hour.
Something for your sweet tooth
For a sweet end to any evening stop for one last drink at Casa Lucio and order a bottle of Spain’s claim to sparkling wine fame, cava. Enjoy Raventós i Blanc Brut Nature Gran Reserva with a slice of the traditional tarta de santiago, an almond cake, that hails from Santiago de Compostela.
Pst, you can enjoy a little tapa for breakfast, too. Take a page from the local’s book and head to La Mallorquina for some excellent freshly baked pastries. Don’t be put off by the crowds at the bar, simply elbow your way up and order. My favorite? A napolitanadechocolate pastryand black coffee. “Una napolitana y café solo, por favor.”
So go on, take a bite out of Madrid, I promise it’s delicious! Buen provecho!
When many people think of South Dakota, Mount Rushmore is oftentimes the first—and perhaps only—thing that comes to mind. That’s a real shame, because this Great Plains state is home to some of the most striking scenery in the country and an array of wholly unique attractions, altogether comprising one of the most underrated regions in the United States. The Western portion of the state, home to the Badlands and the Black Hills, is accessible via Rapid City Regional Airport. All it takes is a rental car and a sense of adventure.
A city on the rise
Rapid City is the urban hub of Western South Dakota, an area on the ascent in terms of development and cultural institutions, all while retaining a charming downtown landscape and a palpable sense of antiquity. Located a mere 10 miles from the airport along SD-44 W, it’s also easy to get to for most travelers. Nicknamed the “City of Presidents,” the modest city juxtaposes history with modernity in a way uncommonly seen in American towns.
This is evidenced by presidential statues dotting the sidewalks and the longstanding Hotel Alex Johnson, a prominent luxury property opened in 1928 with an allegedly haunted past. For the timid, rumored sightings of the benevolent Lady in White and a young girl have been confined to the eighth floor, so stay elsewhere in the 11-story property and you’ll sleep soundly.
History is also on full display at well established Native American businesses like the expansive Prairie Edge Trading Co. and Galleries, which pays homage to local Lakota history and artisans via books, quilts, jewelry and lots more. Don’t miss the Journey Museum and Learning Center either, which takes visitors on a time-traveling tour of the region’s Native American heritage in inspiring ways, from Black Hills geology to clothing and weapons fashioned by the Sioux Indian people.
While Rapid City is proudly rooted in its ancient heritage, it’s also segueing nicely into a new era by blending in modern establishments and exciting developments. Case in point, the city’s home to South Dakota’s first brewery, Firehouse Brewing Company, which features a rotating array of brews on tap in an old firehouse building. There are also cool new spots like Press Start, a subterranean arcade bar bursting with ‘80’s and ‘90’s nostalgia, and The Blind Lion, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge manned by dexterous mixologists in a clandestine location downtown. For entry, your best bet is to visit Murphy’s Pub & Grill, and ask a server. While strolling downtown, swing by Main Street Square, a beautiful new public space that features live concerts, ice skating in the winter and other cultural affairs.
Firehouse Brewing Company
Main Street Square
The Badass Badlands
If you think you have an idea of what to expect from the Badlands, just wait. Situated roughly 63 miles from Rapid City, right off I-90 E, the eye-popping national park spans 244,000 acres of roving hiking trails, roadways, canyons and buttes comprised of clay soil and sedimentary rock. It’s as if the Grand Canyon combined with Mars; the terrain looks and feels like nothing else on the planet. The best part is how hands-on the park is, as visitors are able to hike and camp just about anywhere in the Badlands—just watch out for rattlesnakes and the occasional surly bison. There are also several designated hiking paths to hit up, including one with a somewhat intimidating ladder scaling the side of a canyon.
Wall Drug
Just outside the Badlands, off SD-240 E, is Wall Drug, an iconic roadside attraction in Western South Dakota. It’s pretty impossible to miss, considering the highways leading up to it are lined with quirky billboards practically every 10 seconds. It’s worth a stopover for its dizzying souvenir shops, apothecary and quaint chapel that looks like something out of a Quentin Tarantino movie. There’s also a giant jackalope and animatronic T-Rex, because why not, and a cafe churning out delicious fresh donuts all day long.
Exploring the Black Hills
Driving towards the Black Hills national forest from the Badlands, about 103 miles back through Rapid City along I-90 W, terrain shifts from arid desert to lush trees, glistening lakes and dark, rolling mountains. It’s hard to believe the same region can lay claim to two such disparate landscapes, but it’s a testament to South Dakota’s unique natural beauty. This is where you’ll find Mount Rushmore, a rightful bucket list item for many a traveler, and most definitely worth a visit for its prominence in American history. But beyond the familiar, there’s much to explore in the Black Hills.
Under construction since 1948, Crazy Horse will be the largest mountain sculpture in the world when it’s finally complete. For reference, the entirety of Mount Rushmore would be able to fit inside Crazy Horse’s head. Designed to honor North American Indians and revered Lakota leaders like Crazy Horse, the carving is quite overwhelming and moving. There’s a visitor center at the foot of the mountain packed with paraphernalia and history, where attendees can learn about the family-operated endeavor and the rich Native American lore behind it. Occasional traditional Native American dances and demonstrations take place as well, providing an engaging way to get acquainted with the region’s heritage.
While towns like Custer are fairly prominent in the Black Hills, one that’s less familiar is Hill City. The charming town sports a bustling main street lined with saloons, inns and varying shops, and the 1880 Train is a blast from the bygone past for passengers looking to chug their way through the hills and forest to the town of Keystone. For those with an itch for hiking, the Mickelson Trail that winds through Hill City is requisite. The 109-mile trail is among the longest in the country, converted from former train tracks to a tour de force of the Black Hills for hikers, cyclists, walkers and cross-country skiers. You’ll meander under tunnels carved into mountain sides, over bridges, through fields and get up close and personal with nature at its most pristine.
For visitors looking for a bit of interactive entertainment, check out Rush Mountain Adventure Park, a family-friendly destination in Keystone with a cave tour, zipline and brand new hillside roller coaster. The cave is a great option for underground novices, as it’s a relatively short tour through a handful of subterranean rooms. Hit up the two-person zipline ride, which rockets you down over the parking lot and back, then buckle up for a coaster ride.
Rush Mountain Adventure Park
Unlike typical roller coasters, this sports one- or two-person carts that allow passengers to control their own speed with levers, affording a fantastic and thrilling way to drink in the mountain sights as fast or as slow as you’d like.
From the old to the new, and through impressively diverse landscape, the Western region of South Dakota proves itself to be an essential travel destination for visitors of all types.
Silence and darkness battle for dominance in Kaunakakai, a small town on the southeastern shore of the Hawaiian island of Moloka`i. A dim yellow street lamp comes to life and knocks darkness off its game, and silence gains the lead.
It’s 9:30 p.m. and I’m sitting in my rental car, no one else in sight. I get out, spend a minute in the dark, and revel in the feeling of lingering on the street alone in the shadows of a ghost town. Feels odd, but I’ve got a craving, and I’m going to get my fix. Being here in the dark at Hotel Lane is different than what I might be waiting for at, say, Hotel Street in Honolulu. It defies stereotypes of traditional hedonistic pleasures sought out from back alley peddlers. Down this narrow passageway that weaves between modest homes and turn of the century structures lies another kind of indulgence. It’s squeaky clean, appropriate for all ages, and legal: dessert.
The alleyway leading from Kanemitsu Bakery
By day, unassuming Kanemitsu Bakery offers the expected homestyle fare of breakfast, deli items, coffee, and pastries. Lonely Planet recommends its macadamia nut lavosh and others swear by the taro doughnuts. But after dark, Kanemitsu’s leads another life. They close their front doors, and the shop moonlights as a purveyor of freshly baked Moloka‘i hot bread, sold exclusively from the bakery’s back door. From 8 p.m. to midnight, every night except Tuesday, the bread is served straight from the oven, piping hot and smothered in a sweet topping. And business is good – Kanemitsu sells an average of 100 loaves of bread each night, and over 300 on weekends.
Taro doughnuts
The town of Kaunakakai closes at 5 p.m., when most of its eclectic shops close – art galleries, a dive shop, health food store, plate lunch joint (open till 9 PM weekdays, but only till 2 PM weekends), and a few others that meet people’s basic needs. Moloka`i is refreshingly underdeveloped, lacking in 24-hour mini-marts to rely on when the late night munchies hit. Knowing the alley is the island’s only after dark source for a sugary treat, I made the half hour drive from the west side’s oceanfront condos (where most visitors stay) in complete darkness, sharing the road only with Moloka`i’s wild deer.
Downtown Kaunakakai
I walk down the street and spot a hand painted sign on a cement wall declaring that “Moloka`i Hot Bread” is down another alley on my left. Colored Christmas lights are the only lights at the end of this dark tunnel. I approach. The open top half of a door offers a peak into a dark and empty cement room, no server or worker in sight. A marker board to my right announces flavor options for the toppings. Cinnamon, strawberry, blueberry, with butter or cream cheese. I knock. And wait. The voice of an aunty breaks the silence. “Hi! What would you like?” She’s wearing a warm smile, and I tell her I’ll take cinnamon and strawberry with butter. Soon she’s gone again, before quickly returning with a hot loaf of wheat bread sliced down the middle and oozing sugary goodness. The packaging is as modest as the location, a simple green plastic bag.
I pay my $7 (cash only, of course), and thank her. Before I leave, she generously places another bag in my arms, this one filled with three glazed pastries. Heading back down the alley, I rip off a piece of bread and stuff it in my mouth. The strawberry is jellylike, and the cinnamon (my favorite of the two) resembles a tastier and homemade Cinnabon. As I leave, the rush arrives and I pass a young couple, family of four, and three teenage boys. Back on the main street, my car isn’t alone anymore as others pull up, and for the next hour or so, this corner in Kaunakakai will be the busiest spot on Moloka`i.
One of the most prestigious film festivals in the world, Berlinale is a major annual event that draws a fascinating crowd of A-list stars, movie makers, and film lovers from all over the world. If you’re searching for the perfect place to stay during the festival, take a look at our expert picks for the best luxury, mid-range, and budget accommodations. All nine locations are within walking distance, or are just a short taxi ride away, from Berlinale headquarters at Potsdamer Platz.
The grande dame of Berlin hotels, the Hotel Adlon Kempinski re-opened in 1997 after being destroyed in World War II. Its deluxe interiors pay homage to its storied past, striking a lovely balance between romantic nostalgia and modern elegance. A Michelin-starred restaurant, an indoor pool, and stunning views of Brandenburg Gate make it a perennial favorite with movie stars like Angelina Jolie and Penelope Cruz. From here, it’s a half-mile walk, or a 5-minute taxi ride, to Potsdamer Platz.
Just steps from Potsdamer Platz, the Grand Hyatt Berlin is a modern sandstone hotel by the famed Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. Thoughtful design touches, from the Bauhaus photos to the minimalist furnishings, attract fashion-forward guests and luminaries like Madonna. Don’t miss the views from the rooftop spa, or the Michelin-starred food at Vox, their top-rated restaurant.
Overlooking Potsdamer Platz, the Ritz-Carlton may look like a modern-day skyscraper on the outside, but the interiors in this splendid, 303-room hotel ooze traditional glamor and 19th-century sophistication. Luxurious decor, from the cherry wood closets to the gold-leaf fixtures, along with fantastic service and a decadentin-house restaurant, help make this one of Berlin’s most lavish hotels.
A fashionable, 65-room boutique property in one of Berlin’s trendiest neighborhoods, The Circus Hotel attracts a youngish crowd with an eye for style. Each of the bright, modern rooms features its own unique décor, but all of them boast comfortable beds, rich oak floors, and smart design details. Just ten minutes by car from Potsdamer Platz, the hotel is next to an U-Bahn subway station and is surrounded by popular cafes and restaurants.
Located about a mile from Potsdamer Platz, between a picturesque canal and Tiergarten park, the Grand Hotel Esplanade exudes modern luxury. Beautifully furnished rooms come with feather beds and views of the canal or of the park. A sleek cocktail bar, three restaurants, and a private yacht make it an ideal place to unwind after a day of movie-binging.
Nestled among the upmarket art galleries, fashionable shops, and flashy restaurants in the Mitte district, Lux 11 is a hip hotel featuring tastefully decorated minimalist apartments. One of the former homes of the East German secret police, the property is now part of the Design Hotels group. Created by noted design duo Claudio Silvestrin and his wife, Giuliana Salmaso, the hotel also boasts a lovely rooftop terrace and an Aveda spa on the ground floor. A taxi ride to Potsdamer Platz takes about 10 minutes from here.
Set in a neoclassical building near the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate, The Arte Luise Kunsthotel started off as an art studio in 2008. Today, it’s a home away from home for artists and media types, where each of the 30 rooms was designed by a different Berlin artist. If Alice in Wonderland murals and hot-pink velvet sheets aren’t your taste, they also have plain rooms with shared baths on the top floor. The hotel is 10 minutes via subway, or 5 minutes via taxi, from Potsdamer Platz.
In a city brimming with sub-par hostels, The Circus Hostel sets itself apart from the rest: clean, stylish, and friendly, it’s the cheaper sibling of the popular Circus Hotel on the same street. Knowledgeable staff and a prime location near bars, restaurants, interesting shops, and public transportation make it a favorite with young travelers. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride, or a 20-minute subway ride, to Potsdamer Platz.
A two-star hotel in Friedrichshain with rooms outfitted in true Eastern-bloc style, Ostel – GDR The Hostel is further afield than the rest of our Berlinale-friendly hotels: it’s a 15-minute taxi ride (or a 20-minute subway ride) from the film festival’s headquarters at Potsdamer Platz. If you have a thing for communist-era design, this place is worth the added travel time. Choose from simple, dormitory-style beds or check into the Stasi suite, where the bugging devices don’t work but the décor will take you straight back to 1970s East Germany.
Last year, I spent three months living in Ubud, Bali and loved every minute of it. While I traveled widely in Bali, I spent the majority of my time living and breathing Ubud. Unlike some of the other more touristy destinations on Bali, Ubud is a vibrant cultural hub. It is a mecca for art, yoga, shopping, fresh, organic food, and, my personal favorite, rice terraces. There is so much to do, see, and experience in Ubud, but our 72-hour guide includes my can’t-miss recommendations.
Morning, Day One
Pura Saraswati
If you are staying in town, grab breakfast at Kafe, where I’d recommend ordering the buckwheat banana pancakes, or, if you want to eat like the locals, order the Bubur Injin, which is a black rice pudding with coconut milk and banana. After fueling up, head out and explore the center of town. You will see and experience the culture of Bali everywhere. There are boutiques and shops, amazing restaurants and cafés. Take it all in. Explore. While you are wandering, you must stop at the following three places. The first is Ubud Market, which is a market where locals shop for fresh fruits and vegetables but also attracts tourists with locally-made goods. Next, check out Pura Saraswati, also known as the Lotus temple, as there are large lotus ponds right in front of the temple. The Saraswati temple is breathtaking with elaborate carvings that honor the goddess Saraswati known to be the goddess of wisdom and the arts. There are also regular dance performances by night at the temple. Finally, don’t miss Ubud Palace, which, similar to the Lotus temple, underscores the intricate craftsmanship of traditional Balinese style.
Afternoon, Day One
Sacred Monkey Forest
Take a break from the intense heat with lunch at Taco Casa. While it might sound strange to eat Mexican food in Bali, this place is a favorite of mine, probably my most-frequented place during my time there. I highly recommend the vegetarian eight-layer burrito bowl, and I’m not even vegetarian. To drink, don’t miss the orange lime mint ginger soda. After lunch, head to the Sacred Monkey Forest. You can’t go to Ubud without stopping by Monkey Forest. As the name suggests, monkeys are everywhere, and, yes, they will jump or climb on you. Don’t be afraid, but be aware that they will try to grab anything off your body, like hats or sunglasses, and, of course, any food or drink in your hand or even relatively accessible in your bag.
Evening, Day One
Sunset over a ricefield
A perfect evening in Ubud is watching the sun set over the iconic rice fields. Is there anything better than that? Yes, enjoying dinner while watching the sun set over the rice fields. Do this at Sari Organik. Their food is locally sourced at an organic farm across the road. I am a big fan of their fried rice with chicken. While it is a little difficult to find, as cars aren’t allowed to drive up to it, you can either take a scooter along the narrow path (don’t do this unless you are confident in your scooter-driving skills) or you can find the wooden sign along the main road and then walk along the rice fields and lovely bungalows until you reach the restaurant. If you get lost, just ask around and someone will point you in the right direction. The Balinese people are extremely friendly and helpful. After dinner, head to Laughing Buddha for drinks, live music, and dancing.
Morning, Day Two
Telegalang rice terraces
Rent a scooter and head over to Clear Café for breakfast. They have unique coffee drinks (such as mint or coconut lattes), and all of the food on their menu is not only organic but incredibly delicious. I also highly recommend trying one of their tonics or elixirs. Also, while you dine, you’ll be staring at one of Bali’s many temples. After you’ve nourished your body, cruise over to the Tegalalang Rice Terraces. Photos don’t do it justice. Rice terraces are quintessential Bali and are a prominent part of the scenery around the island, especially in Ubud. The Balinese have developed an impressive and complex system of terraced rice fields as the steep terrain precludes the use of the traditional wet farming style to grow rice.
Afternoon, Day Two
Tegenungan Waterfall
Head back to the center of town and visit Dewa Warung for lunch. It’s a small spot in the midst of a busy street of other restaurants and shops. It doesn’t appear particularly attractive from the outside, but locals love it. Try the avocado salad and the soto ayam. After lunch, put on your swimsuit, jump on your scooter, and go to the Tegenungan Waterfall. This place is not just for tourists. You will see an abundance of locals here as well, especially on the weekends. You will have to descend (and then later ascend) a long staircase and then walk along the river to get to the waterfall, so some physical dexterity is required for this excursion. But it’s worth it for the photo opp, and of course cooling off with a swim under the falls.
Evening, Day Two
CP Lounge
Dinner at Naughty Nuri’s is a must and, it should be noted, is Anthony Bourdain approved and recommended. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, so plan on waiting for a table. If it’s a Friday night, head to the Yoga Barn for Ecstatic Dance. This is a dance party with a DJ, but no one is allowed to speak to each other. You are encouraged to feel the music and let your body move. It may take you out of your comfort zone, but it’s a great way to meet other travelers and have an experience unlike anything you’ve done before. If that’s too far outside of your comfort zone, an alternative is to have drinks and listen to live music at CP Lounge. Their strawberry sensation cocktail is amazing.
Morning, Day Three
Morning yoga
Another day, another rice field. Trust me, you won’t be sick of dining with a view. At The Elephant, you’ll find both an incredible view and healthy, delicious, sustainable food. Then, head back to the Yoga Barn for a morning yoga session. Yoga is one of the primary draws to visiting Ubud, even if you don’t practice regularly (I don’t), so it’s worth checking out, if only for the experience. Afterwards, go next door and have a massage. Bali is a premier destination for massages as they are very economical, costing on average between $7 and $10 for an hour.
Afternoon, Day Three
Tirta Empul
Have lunch at a quaint, local place called Bubu Warung. Most everything on the menu is delicious, but, in particular, I highly recommend the chicken curry. Also, the staff is wonderful. Then, jump back on your scooter and head a little out of town to Tirta Empul, which is a traditional Balinese water temple. Locals go here for purification which is done by standing under a series of water spouts in one of two large pools. Also, be sure to walk around the grounds and see the temples.
Evening, Day Three
The Onion Collective
For your last evening in Ubud, I would highly recommend rendang, a local marinated meat dish (but vegetarian options are available too) at Waroeng Bernadette. It is located on a street with lots of shopping and other restaurants, which can serve as a relaxing pre-dinner activity. After dinner, stop by The Onion Collective, which is a unique space that includes living accommodations, a co-working space, a pool, and regular evening entertainment. They host a flea market with locally-made goods and often an artist who does pencil sketches, open mic nights, and live bands (the owner, Mark, often plays with his band). The staff is incredibly personable, and the food is great as well.
The thought of living among five volcanoes on an island in the Pacific may not instill a sense of peace in many people. But for locals on the Big Island of Hawaii, one of those volcanoes holds a range of respected qualities, and that’s Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain from base to summit. It holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for Native Hawaiians. Eleven countries operate 13 telescopes on the mountain including the Keck Observatory. And high above the beaches and valleys, it can transform into a winter wonderland. When heavy rains bring a thick blanket of snow to Mauna Kea, its summit becomes a gathering place above the clouds. The Mountain (as locals call it) looms as a stark backdrop to the laid-back east side town of Hilo. Mauna Kea reaches nearly 14,000 feet above sea level, but stakes its claim as twice as tall as Mount Everest thanks to being 32,000 feet tall from the ocean’s floor. Though Mauna Kea is considered dormant, geologists expect its neighboring shield volcano Mauna Loa to erupt again one day. Not far away Kilauea has been erupting for three decades, and inches closer to the historical town of Pahoa each day.
Snow
Snow on Mauna Kea
When locals wake to thick snow on the Mountain, eighty-degree days liven with the promise of an adventure that contrasts the usual surf missions and camping trips. Anticipation builds as people wait for word that the road to the summit has been opened. Their four-wheel-drive trucks will ascend with body boards, snowboards, and trashcan tops to serve as sleds, and descend with loads of snow for building snowmen at home. The lucky pull out winter coats and gloves, while many throw together island style snow gear where warmth increases with each layer (think lots of socks and long sleeved t-shirts).
Though the summit is reached by a rather smooth 4X4 drive, staying there for long takes some endurance. Altitude sickness can hit, resulting in nausea and dizziness. It’s advised that children under the age of 16 don’t go to the top, but they can spend time at the visitor’s center at 9,000 feet, where everyone should spend a half hour acclimating before climbing higher. Here, telescopes are available for use and nightly stargazing is offered from 6 to 10 p.m. whatever the weather.
One of the best ways to enjoy the heights and stars is with the help of Mauna Kea Summit Adventures who offer eight-hour tours that include sunset views, dinner, and stargazing.
Sacred sites
Lake Waiau
Mauna Kea isn’t just for winter shenanigans and sightseeing. It’s home to sacred places, archaeological sites, and, recently, controversy. After years of planning, construction of the $1.4 billion Thirty Meter Telescope begun in late 2014. The telescope that will have roughly 10 times the resolution of Hubble was not born without a fight, a fight where tradition and science couldn’t find common ground. Hawaiians and cultural preservationists say that the construction of the telescope would dissolve and disgrace the sacred places and spiritual significance of Mauna Kea. For Hawaiians, Mauna Kea embodies the union of Wakea, the Sky Father, and Papahanaumoku, the mother goddess who gave birth to the Islands. One of those sacred sites is Lake Waiau at 13,000 feet amidst an arid, rocky, oxygen-poor landscape. The only glacially formed lake in the mid-Pacific, was and still is used for healing and cultural practices. Traditionally families would deposit the umbilical cord of newborns into the lake, as well as spread the ashes of the deceased there.
Past and future
Mauna Kea under the Milky Way
At 12,000 feet elevation on Mauna Kea’s southwest slope is a quarry that contributed to the evolution of Hawaiian culture. Pre-contact Hawaiians made the trek on foot to access the high quality basalt adze quarry. Large boulders were broken down into portable adze “blanks,” which were then carried back down to shoreline homes for manufacturing. But that was then, and this is now where Mauna Kea will help science move forward and connect Native Hawaiians with tradition. It offers snowboard contests, the best sunrises and sunsets, Zen moments at the top of the world, and a view that reaches Maui. As stated so eloquently in the Mauna Kea Comprehensive Management Plan: “…Mauna Kea is sacred. Mauna Kea is where heaven, earth and stars find union. Not just any heaven, but Wakea, not just any earth, but Papahanaumoku, and not just any constellation of twinkling lights, but Ho‘ohokukalani, whose children descend and return to the stars.”
There are places in the world that grab your heart and Vancouver is one of them. I’ve spent more than 20 years here and it never stops. It’s possible to define the different parts of the place, but not the whole. Let me tell you about some of the best parts. Let’s start by picking up a bicycle from Spokes Bicycle Rentals at the edge of Stanley Park, the thousand acres of mostly wild British Columbia that juts out onto the Pacific and anchors Vancouver. We’ll sizzle along the park’s wraparound six-mile-long seawall, which is a rite of passage for most visitors to this extraordinary city on Canada’s west coast.
Stanley Park
Stay
Now let’s decide on a hotel. Location. Location. Location. Right? In Vancouver that means the waterfront: Stanley Park next door; the North Shore mountains across the bustling harbor; and spectacular sunsets over the Pacific morphing peaks of Vancouver Island golden in the distance. Almost all visitors trek to Canada Place for these spectacular and aha-inducing scenes. Why not stay right there at the glass-walled Pan Pacific Vancouver? It’s the only hotel that teeters over the harbor. Even without considering its ideal location, experts consistently rank it among the best hotels in the city. If you want something with less hoopla, away from the cruise ships and float planes that dock next to the Pan Pacific, the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel is across the street, offering outstanding service from a large staff and even a dog to walk, if you care to. There’s a glut of great hotels in this city, but only one waterfront. Why sleep in the inner city? Just saying.
Canada Place
Eat and drink
A block from Canada Place is Gastown, the cobble-stoned historic heart of Vancouver featuring fine casual restaurants. We like The Water St. Cafe for lunch or brunch, especially the see-and-be-seen outdoor patio when the sun shines. Another few blocks distant is Vancouver Magazine’s restaurant of the year for 2016. Maenam serves “authentic Thai cuisine with innovative twists on centuries-old recipes.” It’s located in Kitsilano neighborhood, a hood where you just can’t imagine a Streetcar-Named–Desire lifestyle. It’s close to the beach and only a 15-minute drive across Burrard Bridge from our Canada Place base. On the other hand, nobody should leave northern Pacific waters without dining on seafood. We believe the best is served at Blue Water Cafe, and on this Vancouver Magazine also agrees. The New York Times has called Yew Seafood and Bar (“where cocktails go down easy”), the best place in Vancouver for a nightcap. It’s in the Four Seasons Vancouver, a great hotel, just not on the waterfront. It connects to a vast shopping mall if that’s your thing. A far more hip place for a drink is The Keefer Bar, located in Vancouver’s Old World Chinatown, five minutes from Canada Place. Buzzfeed buzzed about in a piece titled 19 Bars Around The World You Should Drink At Before You Die.
Gastown
Sightsee
From Canada Place, walk the waterfront back to Stanley Park and discover the hallways of tall Douglas firs among the park’s 1,000 acres until you can’t take any more beauty. The First Nations’ totem poles at Brocton Point are British Columbia’s most-visited attraction because of the nine jillion tour buses that stop there. Go early in the morning to experience the vibe. Across Lions Gate Bridge is a gondola at the base of Grouse Mountain, another must-do while visiting Vancouver. During summer months, free shuttles operate from Canada Place. Close by is Capilano Suspension Bridge, which spans a shimmering river where Pacific Ocean salmon spawn. Free shuttles also travel here from downtown locations. Both Grouse Mountain and the suspension bridge charge fees. Throughout greater Vancouver there are reminders that Canada is the homeland of First Nations people. But no place showcases that rich culture deeper than the incomparable Museum of Anthropology, which features permanent and traveling exhibits. Like Seattle, Vancouver gets rain and days on end when the sky is the color of old dimes. That’s when this museum can be the best place to go. Located on the spacious grounds of the University of British Columbia, it’s what you’ll rave about at dinner parties when you get home. Sometimes our own ignorance can really move us. And that’s a reason to travel. Other rainy day attractions include the Vancouver Art Gallery, the largest in Western Canada and featuring traveling exhibits like Picasso and a large permanent collection from the astounding work of West Coast artist Emily Carr. Vancouver in its early days was nailed together hurriedly from odd lots of old growth timber. Canadian prime minister Justin Trudeau is the son of Pierre Trudeau, who was perhaps the most dominant prime minister to ever serve Canada. On a visit to Vancouver about 40 years ago, he remarked “Vancouver will be a nice place when it’s finished.” He was right.
Every trip to Osaka should include a visit to Osaka Castle, a breath-taking, Disney-like structure built in the latter half of the 16th century. Stop by in the morning, when the crowds are thin, and spend a couple of hours taking in the castle’s ageless beauty and watching cyclists and runners race around a shaded gravel track that traces its impressive, silvery moat. Most Japanese eat breakfast at home, but there are plenty of bakeries serving on-the-go meals in the morning. Check out TheCity Bakery at Grand Front Osaka for a bite to eat and good coffee. On your way to the bakery, swing through Nakanoshima Park, an islet between the Dōjima and TosaboriRivers. Nakanoshima, the first public park in Osaka, was built in 1891, and today it incorporates a library, a ceramics museum, and a picturesque little rose garden.
Afternoon, Day One
Tenmangu Shrine
Assuming you’ve worn your walking shoes, leave The City Bakery, skipping over Umeda for now, and stroll over to Tenjinbashi. Here you’ll find a nearly two-mile long covered promenade jam-packed with boutiques, restaurants, bars, cafés, convenience stores, and more. Before you pick up a miso starter from Torii Miso, some kitchen goods from House Kaneki, and more fashion than you know what to do with at Ae-Sop, check out the Tenmangu Shrine, the most revered Shinto shrine in Osaka, the religious site itself dating back a millennium. When hunger strikes, set down your shopping bags and blend in with the locals at Harukoma. Unmistakable for its perpetual queue, this sushi spot delivers on many levels—one being it’s affordable, with an average meal for two costing roughly $30. After your meal, chill out with a pint of Japanese ji-biru (craft beer) at nearbyBeer Belly Tenma, a small brewpub associated with Minoh Beer, an award-winning brewery run by three sisters.
Evening, Day One
Amerikamura
When night falls, head toAmerikamura, “America Town,” the eclectic epicenter of Osaka street culture. This former warehouse district-turned-hotspot for teens and twentysomethings offers yet another opportunity to shop, but this time for wilder things. Make sure to visitVillage Vanguard; it may bill itself as a bookstore, but it’s more like a one-stop shop for every facet of Japanese pop-culture under the sun: anime, vinyl albums, hip-hop streetwear, downright absurd magnets, pins, and buttons, and so much more. In Osaka, there are really only two dishes you have to try, one being takoyaki, golden balls of goodness filled with octopus and topped with sweet soy sauce and mayo. Grab a pack of six from Koryagu, a garishly decorated indoor-outdoor shop kitty-cornered from Sanakaku Koen, or “Triangle Park,” which is essentially the hub—and most prime people-watching spot—of Amerikamura. In the mood for a longer night? Go toBar Nayuta, right across the street from the Triangle Park. It’s cheap, cheerful, and full of a motley crew of characters. Plus, it stays open very late—5-AM late. Afterward, unwind at your room. Highly recommended areHotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka and the five-starSt. Regis Osaka.
Morning, Day Two
Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum
Start your day off with breakfast in Dōtonbori atKissa American, a jun-kissa, or basic café. After a round of eggs, bacon, and coffee, take the subway to Umeda, where you can get a sky-high perspective of Japan’s second city at the floating garden inside the Kiji Umeda Sky Building ($10 entrance fee). After you descend from this dizzying height, here’s an oddball for you: a trip to theMomofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum. It might sound kitsch, but it’s actually one of the more interesting modern museums in Japan.Pay your respects at thestatue of the inventor of packaged ramen before you enter this surprisingly large space, where you can stroll through a tunnel of ramen variations and later create your very own cup of the instant soup.
Afternoon, Day Two
Hanshin Koshien Stadium
If you’re lucky enough to be in town during a Hanshin Tigers baseball game, then shuttle over toHanshin Koshien Stadium to take part in the ritual of watching Japanese baseball from the grandstands. If you’re not so lucky, then go for a different kind of cultural experience, a traditional puppet show at the National Bunraku Theatre.
Evening, Day Two
Dōtonbori
Round out your whirlwind 48 hours at Osaka’s neon-lit hotbed for tourist activity, Dōtonbori. The first stop should be the bridge crossing the Dōtonbori canal. Here is the perfect perch to snap a photo of the iconic, neon-lit Glico running man. Photo-op complete, round the corner to chow down on the other dish you have to try in Osaka, okonomiyaki. Unfairly referred to as the “Japanese pancake,” okonomiyaki is, in fact, a much greater thing: shredded cabbage, Japanese yam, egg, dashi, and a flour-based batter, cooked on a griddle and topped with shredded bonito flakes as well as crisscrossed lines of mayo and a sweet sauce that tastes a little like Worcestershire. A good bet isCHIBO, which is right in the middle of Dōtonbori’s walking street. Call ahead to get a seat at the bar, where the chefs put on shows for their clientele each night. If you still have some energy left, check out the institution that is Bar Core, a so-called stand bar (no tables, in other words), with room for only six at a time. Here you can chew the fat with the dapper barman over some rare, aged Japanese whiskeys and end your 48-hour stay in style.
True, Athens can seem a little overwhelming at first. Between the majesty of the Acropolis, the vibrant colors of the Plaka and the non-stop energy of Syntagma Square it can almost seem like the Greek gods are conspiring to throw you a curveball: how can you possibly see it all when time is limited? First of all, relax. While you’d have to be crazy to think you can manage more than 3,400 years of civic history in the space of a weekend, you can actually take in a quite a bit in 48 hours—and still have time for people-watching over a tall frappé, just like the Athenians do.
Day 1
With 48 hours in Athens, chances are you will be spending at least a few of them tackling the Acropolis, so why not get an eyeful of this starring attraction even before you set out? The vast, wraparound rooftop terrace on the tenth floor of the new Electra Metropolis Athens affords the best view of the Parthenon and Acropolis from any hotel in Athens, hands down. It does double duty as the hotel’s breakfast area and evening cocktail area and features a jaw-droppingly beautiful rooftop pool, too. The 216 rooms and suites pairs classic luxe looks (think hardwood floors and crushed velvet headboards) with modern conveniences and totally indulgent marble bathrooms. Rooms are from approximately $220 a night. (Hint: if they’re sold out, try the New Hotel nearby).
Electra Metropolis Athens
If the Acropolis is the most famous of Athens’ landmarks, the Parthenon (completed back in 438 BC) which graces the peak is its most emblematic. Because of the enormous cultural weight this place carries, you might want to give yourself some context before you make the nearly 500-foot climb and the best place to do that is at the ultra modern Acropolis Museum, situated at the base of the hill. Inside you can peruse some 4,000 artifacts in five collections, including finds from the slopes of the Acropolis and antiquities from the Greek archaic and classical periods. Go for lunch at the rooftop restaurant and enjoy panoramic Acropolis views. Museum admission is 5 euros. As you make your way up the Acropolis itself (admission fee 20 euros; seasonal reductions) the first structure you’ll see is the Propylea, the monumental gateway of the ancient religious complex of which the Parthenon is the centerpiece. And if you’re not too distracted by the spectacular city views in all directions, also take time to inspect the Erechtheion, with its six stunning female Caryatid sculptures.
The Erechtheion
The afternoon is a good time to explore the ruins of the ancient Athenian agora, which is less dramatic than the Parthenon but no less evocative. This area lies just northwest of the Acropolis (it’s an easy walk) and contains numerous sights, including the recently restored Museum of the Stoa of Attalos and the remarkably well-preserved Temple of Hephaestus. Admission to the Agora can be included with Acropolis admission or as a separate (and less expensive) ticket.
The Stoa of Attalos
After soaking up all that history, chances are you’ll be hungry. Tuck into some delicious grilled fish and Greek food classics right in the heart of the Plaka at Diodos (19 Adrianou St). Friendly service and Acropolis views will help make it a meal to remember.
Day 2
Paris has the Louvre, Athens has the National Archaeological Museum. It’s a good thing you had a sound night’s sleep before, because it takes stamina to navigate the thousands of artifacts at what is incontestably one of the greatest museums in the world. Highlights include the gold mask of Agamemnon, the bronze statue of Zeus, frescoes from Akrotiri (the ruined Minoan city in Santorini said to be the original Atlantis), the Antikythera Mechanism—an ancient analogue “computer” recovered from a famous shipwreck—and more richly painted ancient Greek vases than you can count. Admission is 10 euros.
The Mask of Agamemnon, National Archaeological Museum
The neighborhood around the museum, Omonia, has little else to recommend it so after your visit is complete head to Syntagma Square, home to the Greek Parliament and Monument to the Unknown Soldier. This is where to see the iconic Evzones—traditionally dressed presidential guards—who rotate positions on the hour. Syntagma is the heart of modern Athens and it bustles at every hour. For lunch, hit The Greco’s Project at 5 Mitropoleos St where you can either get an amazingly good gyros to go or sit down for a more leisurely plate of souvlaki, moussaka or any number of homemade Greek specialties. You can have a great lunch here for two for under 20 euros.
Evzones at Syntagma Square
In the afternoon, if you have any energy left (and of course you do—you’ve taken your cue from all those Athenians walking around with iced coffees, haven’t you?), explore one of the city’s fantastic, lesser-known museums. One is the Museum of Cycladic Art (admission 7 euros). Technically located in the upscale Kolonaki district, it’s a five-minute walk from Syntagma Square and a veritable treasure chest of antiquities from the Greek islands, Cyprus, Mycenae and more. If on the other hand you want to see the coins that Plato may once have used to buy Socrates a drink, check out the nearby Numismatic Museum (admission 3 euros), housed in the former mansion of Heinrich Schliemann—the notorious archaeologist who excavated Troy. At night, hop on the modern Athens metro to Keramikos. From Syntagma Square this is just one stop after the Monastiraki stop. When you exit the station you’ll be in the heart of Gaziwhich is the epicenter of Athenian nightlife. One glance around the large main square, ringed with restaurants, cafés and bars, and you’ll get an instant refresher course on why cosmopolitan is a Greek word at heart. Almost anywhere you go here is going to be great, but do make time for a cocktail at the raucous Shamone (Elasidon 46) or something more substantial at Butcher Shop (not a real butcher shop) at 19 Persefonis St. Most bars in Gazi serve food too.
Athens is a truly a global city, and it shows and shines in the ancient monuments, the foodie and culture scene and in the sheer vitality of the Greek people who proudly make the capital their home. Two days of taking in the top sights won’t give you much time to rest, but it just might whet your appetite for more.
Twelve European alpine resorts have locked arms and branded themselves “Best of the Alps.” That may sound pretentious but they really are the best of the best, offering Swiss-like-efficiency, capital-H Hospitality, and a tourism infrastructure second to nowhere. And then there’s all the extraordinary skiing.
These dozen classic resorts teeter above the alpine nations of Austria, France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland.
They all offer see-forever views, wide-ranging accommodations, to-die-for restaurants featuring regional cuisine, and history deeper than the abundant winter snowfalls.
Let’s begin by rolling the credits: Chamonix Mont-Blanc, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Davos, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Grindelwald, Kitzbühel, Lech Zürs am Arlberg, Megève, St. Anton am Arlberg, St. Moritz, Seefeld and Zermatt.
They stretch along the horseshoe-shaped Alps from Mont-Blanc to the Matterhorn, way up there where the road gets thin and beautiful and so do the people.
So let’s schuss through these resorts and see what’s there.
Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Chamonix is the best-know French resort in the Alps. It was the venue for the first Winter Olympic Games in 1924. Today it’s Ground Zero for adventure sports in the Alps. The place is fuelled on the adrenaline of extreme skiers and climbers, base jumpers, wing-suit flyers and the next new thing.
Accommodation-wise, let’s stick with the best-of-the-best theme. We doff our berets to Hotel Mont-Blanc, the ideally situated and recently renovated 100-year-old Grand Dame of Chamonix inns. The hotel’s Le Matanfan restaurant challenges the best menus in Paris. Off the slopes, don’t miss the Alpine Museum in Chamonix, located in the exquisite Chamonix Palace.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tucked into Italy’s vaulted Dolomite Mountains, glitzy Cortina d’Ampezzo offers la dolce vita off and on the slopes. Fur coats outnumber ski suits along the streets. But don’t be fooled. This 1956 Winter Olympic venue interconnects with 750 miles of downhill ski trails in 12 valleys utilizing nearly 500 ski lifts. Linked resorts like this are the hallmark of skiing in the Alps. In North America we go up and down; skiers in the Alps go round and round.
Cortina’s best digs, Hotel de la Poste, has been run by the Manaigo family since it opened in 1835. For traditional Ampezzo dishes we recommend El Camineto. For entertainment, stroll the Corso in the center of town amid clouds of Chanel 5 and cigar smoke.
Davos
Davos
Davos is where Prince Charles nearly died in an avalanche (he did lose a friend). It’s the only city in the Alps and it’s as famous for its think tanks, especially the annual World Economic Forum, as it is for its far-reaching slopes. A daylong ski tour leads to the Swiss resort of Arosa, which was made famous by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle who visited in 1894. The Parsenn ski area of Davos was the site of the first downhill race back in 1924.
We like the new Intercontinental Davos hotel perched overlooking the vast alpine playground with sheets like fresh dollar bills. We’re also big on the Old World Pöstli Restaurant. The Kirchner Museum offers insights into the community through the work of Ernst Ludwig Kirchner.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Located beneath the 9,718-foot Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, the combined town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen hosted the 1936 Winter Olympic Games. The warren of old streets defines Bavarian architecture with outdoor frescoes beaming from pastel stuccoed buildings surrounded by glacier-carved summits. The skiing is varied and often challenging. And the infamous Kandahar downhill race is one of the toughest on the World Cup tour.
The Hotel Zugspitze lords over the rest of the Garmisch-Partenkirchen’s accommodations. Interesting side trips include King Ludwig II’s castles at Linderhof and Neuschwanstein. For classic Bavarian dining we like Reindl’s Restaurant. Also not to be missed is the old Ludwigstrasse section of town, where The Werdenfels Museum itself is located in a museum-piece-like fifteenth-century home.
Grindelwald
Grindelwald
The uniquely Swiss storybook village of Grindelwald is dwarfed by glacier-covered summits (including the infamous North Face of the Eiger), and visited by toylike electric trains grinding up the mountains. Visually, this is about as good as the Swiss experience gets.
The chateau-style Grand Regina would receive top-ratings in any European capital, but this setting amid the famed Bernese Oberland makes it seem out of this world. Most of the best dining is found in the region’s hotels. Perhaps the best of them all is Schmitte, located in the Hotel Schweizerhof, which ranks right up there with the Grand Regina.
Kitzbühel
Kitzbühel
Kitzbühel is Austria’s most glamorous resort and usually produces more ski champions than anywhere in the world. This is the heart of the Tyrol, a poster pinup of everything we hope to find when skiing Europe. The fourteenth-century St. Andreas church bells toll and the sweet scent of apfelstrudel drifts with mountain air along the cobbled, car-free streets of Old Town.
Five-stars-and-counting Hotel Tennerhof is as elegant as it gets in this town, which is as famous for its après-ski as it is for its slopes. The elegant restaurant Kupferstube is usually acclaimed as the best kitchen in town. We agree. Both Innsbruck and Venice are just an hour away via train and make for a wonderful daylong excursion away from the slopes.
Lech Zürs am Arlberg
Lech Zürs am Arlberg
Lech Zürs am Arlberg is the last bastion of five-star skiing in Austria. The slopes are as groomed as the mostly silver-haired folks who ski here. Lech’s Old World charm has always been popular with the well-to-do and the well-known, including royalty. Above Lech, the village of Zürs is one of the most exclusive ski destinations in the world.
There’s a glut of high-end hotels in the area, but we like to go sideways here and stay with Olympic downhill champion Egon Zimmermann at his four star Hotel Kristberg, where we never tire of the stories from this kind, gentle and brave man. If you’re craving more luxury, visit the Burgvital Resort and its over-the-top restaurant.
Megève
Megève
Stylish Megève is as much a state of mind as a place. The sunny Mont Blanc neighborhood is all you can ask of the Alps. It’s perhaps the most romantic and charming among the dozen resorts that make up the Best of the Alps, although the slopes are relatively tame. The medieval-style village showcases luxury digs, fine French cuisine and swank shops.
But some of France’s best Haute Savoie cuisine is found in the myriad on-mountain restaurants that border Megève’s slopes. Take your pick – you can’t go wrong. The most acclaimed restaurant is Flocons de Sol, and on this we agree with other professional critics. Off the slopes, explore the thermal baths at St. Gervais.
St. Anton am Arlberg
St. Anton am Arlberg
St. Anton am Arlberg yields up Austria’s most famous ski terrain. Some believe its ski instructors taught the world to ski, moving to new mountain ranges like missionaries. The sweeping ski circus is vast and exciting. The emphasis is on good, hard skiing by day, and raucous partying at night. The quality of both is uncommonly high. Hotel Schwarzer Adler in St. Anton has served us well over the years and we highly recommend it. For a cozy evening, we like to dine by the fireplace at The Museum Restaurant located in the 104-year-old Trier villa, which by day houses St. Anton’s outstanding museum.
St. Moritz
St. Moritz
Surprisingly, the only Olympic site in Switzerland is St. Moritz, host of the Winter Games in1928 and then again in 1948. Set within the spectacular mountains of the heart-shaped Upper Engadine above a string of lakes beneath 13,000-foot Piz Bernina, St. Moritz is arguably the world’s most famous winter address.
Back in 1864, a local innkeeper named Johannes Badrutt dared his British summer guests to return in winter with a money-back guarantee if they weren’t satisfied. From that, the world’s first winter resort evolved. Badrutt’s Palace Hotel remains perhaps the most exclusive accommodations in the ski world. And you can’t beat the hotel’s dining options. Bring your no-limit credit card.
Seefeld
Seefeld
Located just 15 miles south of Innsbruck, Seefeld is one of the prettiest spots in the Alps. And it’s ancient, first mentioned in Roman documents in the year 1022. The heart of the village is a car-free, cobblestone center rimmed by steep roofs, ornate balconies and typical Tyrolean post-and-beam architecture.
Hotels are small, intimate and upscale. Most of them are family run. Particularly pleasing is the five-star Hotel and Spa Klosterbrau, built around a former sixteenth-century monastery. Dining in the hotel’s 500-year-old wine cellar is a memory lasting long after the deep snow turns into even deeper wildflowers.
Zermatt
Zermatt
Surprisingly, this alphabetical listing of the Best of the Alps has saved the best for last. Zermatt is where we most like to ski. You can almost reach out and touch the Matterhorn in this carless village, whose ambience is as rich as a Swiss chocolate bar. It’s the kind of place that would stop a thousand tour buses a day, if they were allowed up this extraordinary valley. The skiing is all you could ask for.
The Grand Hotel Zermatterhof does the resort proud. But we also like the Riffelalp Resort located midway up the mountain, which offers a wide-ranging choice of restaurants. The nearby Findeln area is touted as the finest collection of mountain restaurants in the world. A visitor would be remiss not to seek them out. Especially appealing is the Findlerhof Restaurant.
